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HTDP120ED6WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the HTDP120ED6WW
16 - 30 of 447

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Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic
35 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Alexandria, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!
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Old timer Knob cracked where clip goes.
27 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from OCALA, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I did a search on your site to find out why dryer wouldn't start. It said 25 % of the time it could be the timer knob. Checked my old one sure enough it was cracked.Took old timer knob off and pushed New one back on less than a minute. Thank you for your site. It saved me from costly repairs.
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replacement of holed lint screen
30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Clarksville, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
straightforward swap, just form the top rail and click it in
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dryer was cutting off completely.
32 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. Wh en the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.
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interlock switch was bad. Prevents the dishwasher form running as it "thinks" the door is still open.
31 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from EPHRATA, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.
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Noisy like a chain rattling inside
27 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from New Martinsville, WV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.