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HSM22IFTESA Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Dairy Door Cover had cracked
21 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephanie from Tampa, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Repair took about 5 seconds. No directions necessary. Super easy.
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no problem
18 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from West Union, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.
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The Ice Bucket Was Cracket And The Auger Also Broken.
18 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sharon from Glendale, AZ
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I was able to order the correct parts . Needed my son in law (who in an engineer) to put it together. It was sort of a challenge forhim too. W the persons that I spoke to were very helpful and very nice and the parts came quickly. Thank heavens for the internet. The part that was broken was inside the freezer part of my frig.
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A piece of the crusher cover broke off into the ice bin
18 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Woodland Hills, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bi
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n warmed up.
Replaced and put everything back together.
Replaced and put everything back together.
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Stripper on the icemaker broke into pieces.
18 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tracy from Yuba City, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
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Icemaker supply hose leaking at freezer entrance
18 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Meridian, MS
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench set
I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are
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excellent!
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Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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D from ZELLWOOD, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
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loss of refrigeration
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Heather from Pennington, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After mopping up the floor - the whole freezer that was iced up melted - that's how I found out about the problem...
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering ... Read more the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering ... Read more the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
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Ice auger was broke and ice was freezing in the recess door
21 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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danny from west potsmouth, OH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
all parts worked and were easy to install. probably saved me from having to buy a new fridge. ice maker is working fine and recess door flap is closing correctly. very satisfied.
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Iced up Freezer compartment in SxS
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jamison from Heltonville, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice m
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aker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).
Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).
EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!
Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).
EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!
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My 13 yr grandson assisted me on this
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sherry from Auburn Hills, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!
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No longer needed water filters
22 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeffrey from Williamsburg, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!
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Ice maker door failed to close letting ice melt
18 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Republican City, NE
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.
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freezer fan failing; veried speed making whirling sounds
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason` from Colchester, CT
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
First, I removed all the shelves and the light guard. Second, I removed the nuts that held the fan guard and the freezer back in place (2 just under the fan guard and removed the freezer back. Third, lifted fan guard out of way (being very careful not to crack it..... cold plastic). Fourth, unpugged fan from pug then removed nuts that
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held fan bracket in place...removed fan. fifth, then removed fan blade and remove fan motor from bracket, removed two wires that went to freezer light (pay attention to where they go) and installed them into the new wireing harness. Sixth, installed fan blade on new motor, bolted new assembly in fan bracket, plugged in and reistalled fan into the freezer, replaced fan guard and freezer back (reverse order of above) and then replaced freezer racks. works beautiful.
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when dispensing ice the flap door would not open properly and was open most of the time causing the door to ice up...cause solenoid was rusted badly
19 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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calvin from annapolis, MD
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by
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taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.
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