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HDA2100H65CC Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions
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Telescopic sprayer assembly in the Spray Arm Weld broke top element popped out
107 of 129 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Larry from Fort Worth, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench set
First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chanc ... Read more es are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chanc ... Read more es are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
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lower dishrack rusted
89 of 99 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
michael from Bloomington, IN
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
replaced rack, no repairs required
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Dishwasher water will not drain.
47 of 59 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Hector from West Melbourne, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.
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Dishwasher rack was rusting and partially broken
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John C from Indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.
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Deteriorate Lower Rack
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from Brentwood, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.
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Dishwasher solenoid overheated
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Matt from Summerfield, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwashe
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r back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.
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The dishwasher did not drain
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kirk from Graniteville, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it.
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Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.
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Dishwasher wouldn't drain
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
MICHAEL from YPSILANTI, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoo
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thly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.
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Dishwasher would not drain. Used air to confirm drain hose was clear. Traced problem to Drain Solenoid
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
chris from Albany, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, r
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e-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!
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Leaking from pump housing
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Erik from Rockford, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Heard a noise in our dishwasher and ended up taking the entire pump and housing out and found a small sucker stick in the impeller along with a bunch of string and other material that needed to be cleaned out. Also found that the housing was leaking at the shaft that goes to the solenoid and dripping on the solenoid and had rusted the me
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tal plunger that goes into the solenoid. Bought the housing and solenoid unit. 1 screw (bottom one) on the housing was rusted becaue of the water. Had to hacksaw the housing and then had to drill out that screw. Also, the pump housing screen is left hand thread and is tough to get out. Had to hacksaw that too. Be careful of the orientation of the metal ring in the impeller area. I did that backwards the first time and the motor would not move. Also, the electrical connector to the motor appears to be polarized so it can only go on 1 way-notice before you take it out. Be sure to screw the solenoid bracket back on tight and notice the spring orientation before you remove-the new one was different than the old. Bottom line is that it works fine, and for $40, it's fixed, rather than spending $800 for a new one.
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rust
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Oria from Scottsdale, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just took the old rusty rack out and put the new one in its place.
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Dishwasher tub would not drain
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from McDonough, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pulled unit out from counter (never had dishwasher issues before) to see if there was anything obvious with wiring or anything. Noticed that some little piece on the bottom looked to have melted (later discovered to be the drain solenoid). Removed the obviously defective part and looked it up on line. Found the name of it on Part Select
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's website then started shopping for best price. Came back to Part Select because the price was the cheapest I could find. Two - Three days later received part and put it back on and had the dishwasher back in place and in use within about 10-15 minutes. Marking my first ever dishwasher repair. :)
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Lower dishrack getting rusty in spots
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Catherine from South Hadley, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just lift out the old dishrack and put in the new. Very easy and straightforward. Easy to order, unit came assembled. Happy customer.
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dishwasher would not drain
7 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
gary from Farmington, NM
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
replaced solenoid. worked properly after repair
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Broken plastic spray arm
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
TRAVIS from Webster, MA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
There's a video on youtube from this site on how to install spray arm and base. Great video. Great price
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