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GSE746RFS1 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the GSE746RFS1
121 - 135 of 563

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Glides and felt worn out. Rust spots on clothing and clothes with strings getting caught.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Snellville, GA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.

Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.

This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.
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No Heat, Dryer Runs, But Right Side Of Timer Would Not Advance, Left Timer Would
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • STEPHEN from Nashville, TN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shak e probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.
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dryer drum quit turning
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from VERO BEACH, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
followed the instructions video on the site had no problems just took about 2 hrs to complete
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Heating element went out
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Brandon, MS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Our heating element went out on our Frigidaire Affinity dryer. My husband is good at repairing things so we decided to order the part and do the repairs rather than hire a service technician. Before looking at the dryer we thought the back could be unscrewed and taken off to give access to the element but it did not. He had to take the dr yer drum out to access the element. It was easy enough for him to do though and since we had everything opened up I was able to use the shop vac to get all lint cleaned out. I'm glad he did have to take the drum out after I realized the gasket on the exhaust pipe wasn't fitted on properly. There was some lint where there should not have been. Now that everything is clean and we have the new heating element installed we are good to go! The whole process of taking apart, installation and putting back together took about an hour and 15 minutes so not bad and we only had to pay for the part and shipping! Thanks PartSelect!
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Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SHARON from SUMMERVILLE, SC
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I us ed a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.
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Dryer stopped Heating
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ted from Mountain Home, ID
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).

-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the insi de of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.
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bearing bad and shaft broken
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from New Roads, LA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine
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dryer wouldn't heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Mukwonago, WI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to p op it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.
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Dryer was snagging clothes between the drum and frame
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Auburndale, MA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhes ive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.
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Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Portsmouth, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide . Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)
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Our door catch got lost inside the dryer after the door was slammed to hard
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joyce from PORTAL, GA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package
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loud squeeling noise
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lewis from Thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on th e belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
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Latch on dryer no longer worked
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chris from dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.
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Clothing was getting caught between drum and front panel
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Cumberland, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect.
Mike
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Rust Spots on the clothes....
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lincoln from rio rancho, NM
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
OK, this is a follow-on repair story.. I *did not* order the lower basket seal when I ordered the upper basket seal... shame!!! BUT, I am now exceptionally quick at removing the front panel - less than 20 seconds!!!

For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.
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All Instructions for the GSE746RFS1
121 - 135 of 563