GLGF386DBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I researched the actual problem and found the correct part to order. My husband researched repair videos and saved them until our part arrived. On repair day he pulled the oven away from the wall, turned off the gas to the oven at the shutoff, and unplugged the electric cord. He removed the oven door, baking racks, oven floor, shield unde ... Read more r the oven floor, and storage drawer. It was a little awkward for him to get at the igniter location in the center of the oven. Once he got the old igniter unplugged and the new one in place, he followed the video instructions to plug the electric cord in again to test the new part -- while everything else was still dismantled. The new igniter fired on in just a few seconds and glowed red, just as expected. Successful test! Then he reassembled all the parts, needing a third hand to hold the igniter assembly in place so he could put in the screws. He took his time, and thinks it took him about an hour. I took a golden opportunity to soak the racks and oven floor in Oxi-Clean for an hour, then scrubbed with steel wool (not the unpainted shields!), and eventually the oven front, and inside walls. Once we had everything in place we turned on the oven, listened gratefully to the speedy ignition, and let it run for about 25 minutes. This 20 year old oven looks and works like a new model again -- and it's mostly clean. All in all, this was a fairly easy repair. We've never done this before, and tread carefully through it. We didn't want to mess with gas. Hooray and congratulations! I'm rather proud of him :)

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good qualit ... Read more y wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

order anew knob, put it on

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Very easy to order,part was delivered promptly and installation was easy.I unscrewed a few screws and lifted the bottom panel out and put the new one in.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arri ... Read more ved early than anticipated.

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the pow ... Read more er and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

Had to pull back off due plug in for bake Ignitor is on bottom right Conner , mfg ill design , part was is to install after that. Parts select is great to deal with first part showed up damage due to shipping , parts select sent another with better packaging , works great have used them in the past for Ref ice maker parts . Due it yoursel ... Read more f save money

Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed whi ... Read more ch has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

I was getting an error code every time I turned my oven on. After a Google search I discovered it was a faulty oven temperature sensor. This website is awesome because it has a video showing how to install

Removed oven door, removed oven floor. Unscrewed skirt with attached igniter and gas tube. Two nut screws hold igniter to burner. Remove old igniter and replace with new, reattach two wires with supplied wire nuts. Replace oven floor and door. Oven lit right up, pizza anyone?