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GLEFS79DBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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front left burner was on HI no matter what the dail setting was
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Eric from Mosier, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
pull back panel, 2 screws & one wire at a time.....And don't forget to KILL POWER!!!!super easy works great now and the wife loves it.
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Burner switch would not disengage, leaving +24VAC to the element.
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W3Works, from Fairport, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Repla
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ced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.
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Burner Switch Shorted Out
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Stan from Sun City, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the power cable, removed the top part of the back where the switch was. In front there are two screws that are philip heads that hold the the switch in place. Be careful when replacing the wires. When you take one wire off, place it on the new switch in the the same position. The sw
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itch can be put back, but be careful of the angle, because it has four screw holes. Replace the switch, replace the back, plug the power cable in, and push the stove back to it's original position. Make sure there isn't anything on the burner when you test the switch.
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8" burner would get red hot (High) with knob set on 4 or 5, them cool back down to the correct setting. In a few minutes it would be red hot again.
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Daniel from floyd, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinit
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e Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.
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Control Rod On Switch Was Broken Off
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Richard from Williston, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on t
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he new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!
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Element burned out in 15 months
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James from Basking Ridge, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Very simple, just removed three screws and pulled the top out and turned over and then removed the two screws holding the support bar. Removed and installed the element.Surprised to see that the element burned out in such a short time.
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Infiniti switch needed to be changed.
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Ralph from Peoria, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to c
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all a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.
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burner switch burned out
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Tom from Warfordsburg, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positi
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ons of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.
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RF burner only had High Heat.
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Garner from Sykesville, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are remo
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ved from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.
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Bake element broke off near connector
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Rose from Crowley, LA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
unscrewed brace attached to element without any problem and secured the wire so that it would not fall behind liner. Connector was a bit hard to disconnect so asked my handyman to detach it - I was not familiar with this connection and did not want to break it - he did it w/o problems and attached the new bake element pronto. How easy can
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it get!
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Burner would stay on high when switch was on simmer
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Dennis from Corpus Christi, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Disconnected power first. Removed 4 screws on the back of the range, pulled the knob off of the switch, removed 2 small screws on the switch(on the front , under the knob) pulled off the 4 wires with spade connections on the switch. Put wires on the new switch, put in 2 screws on new switch, pushed knob on switch, replaced back cover and
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tested the new switch. Works great. Took less than 10 mins.
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burner switches had only two settings off and high
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Margarita from Palmyra, VA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
After making sure it was the switches themselves not the burners that were the problem, it was easy locating the exact parts I needed on PartSelect and the shipment arrived in a timely manner. I had to replace two out of four switches. Using a screwdriver, I detached the display pannel and removed the faulty switches. Then I disconnected
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the old wires and attached them to the new switches, one at a time. Closed everything up and the "new" range works great!
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shorted out small element burner switch
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Alvie from Walnut Cove, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was ab
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le to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.
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Burner would stay on and the hi-temp safety limit switch is all that would shut it off.
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Dana from Acton, ME
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked
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the first time.
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could not control the heat cooking
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Robert from HOLTSVILLE, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.
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