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FWSC445RFS2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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water would not shut off causing door to pop open and spill all over the floor
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joe from Interlaken, NY
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.
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No hot water in machine
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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julie from minneapolis, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come o
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ff so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!
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water not turning off
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anita from Orange, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this
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point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.
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Replace belt
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Gregory from Piscataway, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off
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Drive block fitting problem
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Barbara from Calexico, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then
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pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.
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Excess noise in pump, forigien drill bit hitting inpeller blades
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Joseph from Magnolia, MS
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Very simple, unplug washer for safety, remove 2 Phillips screws form bottom of front panel, slide panel down to slip the ears out of their slots. set panel off to side, remove the electrical plug on the pump, unscrew the two hold down Phillips screws, raise the pump up and slid a heavy absorbent towel under the pump, loosen the two clamps
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, slide the hoses off, remove the sloppy wet towel, install the new pump, and screw it down, push the electrical connection on, slip the hoses on , clamp them in place, install the front cover by aligning the slot and ears up, use a screw driver or something the raise the panel up in place then install the last 2 screws plug it in your done.
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Washer leaked at water inlet valve
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Joel from Eugene, OR
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightfo
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rward. And the washer no longer leaks!
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she would not rattle and roll
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michael from minneapolis, AL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went
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shakening and rallting once again.
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We smelled rubber burning when I did laundry.
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Willie L from Sledge, MS
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.
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hose leaking
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Daniel from Daingerfield, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose
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Washer was leaking
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Donald from Burlingame, KS
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I took the front and back off the machine. Removed the old pump by taking out a couple of screws. Put the new pump back in and put it back together. Works fine now.
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washer failed to drain
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Gerard from upper sandusky, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
sucked out remaining water with shop vac. took off lower front panel, two screws. took off back panel, six screws. diconnected drain hose from pump,some addittional water drained out, sucked up with shop vac. disconnected tub drain from pump, more water, shop vac. unplugged two wires from back of pump, removed two screws holding pump, rem
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oved pump, put in new pump, reversed procedure. Done!
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Noisy spin cycle
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Michael from Austin, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cove
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r and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.
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Water would not drain or washer would not spin
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William from Amanda, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new p
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art and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.
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top panel was rusty
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Dennis from Cape Coral, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
replaced it with the new one
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