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FWSC34RGS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the FWSC34RGS0
76 - 90 of 154

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Water would not shut off
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Eagle River, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reve rse of removal.
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Front load washer continued to fill with water until door failed. Major Flood
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Malcolm from Shelley, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so f ar!
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water not turning off
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anita from Orange, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.
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No hot water in machine
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • julie from minneapolis, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come o ff so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!
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water would not shut off causing door to pop open and spill all over the floor
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Interlaken, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.
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water dripping into the tub when off
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from St. Louis, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the co ntrol panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!
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would not drain
  • robertt from rio grande, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
followed on line instructons very easy
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No cold water
  • Cruz from Babylon, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.
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Water would not drain or washer would not spin
  • William from Amanda, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new p art and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.
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Replace belt
  • Gregory from Piscataway, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off
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Drive block fitting problem
  • Barbara from Calexico, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.
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Noisy spin cycle
  • Michael from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cove r and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.
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water did not stop flowing into drum
  • ernest from Ravenden, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-ta pping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!
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I had no problem
  • Albert J. from Homosassa, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.
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Washer would drain most the time but not spin
  • Johnny from Providence, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.
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All Instructions for the FWSC34RGS0
76 - 90 of 154