FGS337KW2 Roper Range - Instructions
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oven door would not lock for self clean
12 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Don from Sherman, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
switched out latch asy,rear
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Bottom door trim was rusted
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from Terre Haute, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.
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oven bottom had rusted out
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Pine Plains, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.
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The gas Safety Valve leaked gas.
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAVID from ALBUQUERQUE, NM
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This is a very simple repair. 1st shut off your gas. Disconnect your gas line from the gas shut off value to the Gas Safety Value(GSV/R)/Regulator. Disconnect the other 2 lines attached to the GSV/R. Remove the 4 mounting screws holding the GSV/V. Wiggle the GSV/R from its location. Carefully remove the 3 wires connected to the GSV/R
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. Install your new GSV/R in reverse order applying sealant to the threaded joints. test for leaks.............. your done!!!
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Gas regulator started to leak.
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Apple Valley, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench set
First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.
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Over would not heat
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeffrey L from Otterbein, IN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Screw drivers, Wrench set
On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the
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solenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.
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oven light flashing off and on when door closed
10 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Keith from Marion, KS
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the two screws that held the cook top on and moved it enough to get to the light switch. Removed the switch and tested with multimeter. Pulled the two wires out of the mounting hole and insulated with elect. tape. Replaced the cook top and installed the two screws that hold it in place. Located the switch at PartSelect on line
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and ordered it. When the switch came in (the next day), I connected the two wires, and snapped the switch in place, and I was back in business.
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glass door needed to be replaced
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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BETH from MONTEREY, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
it took 2 people to do this job. we had to place a yard stick inside the door to keep it open because after we removed the 2 screws inside the door that held the handle on, the door would not stay open. after removing the handle we had to slide the glass down from the top and line it in the slots at the bottom and then we had to replace t
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he handle back on top of the stove, lining up the slots and the side pieces. after that we screwed in the 2 screws and yea! we did it right. The glass is in and we managed to not break it!
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Oven wasn't preheating to temperature
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Margaret from WALDORF, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).
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Both right and left side trims were broken.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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A D from HOUSTON, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.
Other Parts Used:
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scratches and paint detoriation on bottom part of oven
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Galloway, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed t
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hat evening.
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broken handel and trim
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James C. from Middletown, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Un-screwed 4 screws. Got part numbers off of the pieces. Put numbers in blank on web site and ordered the pieces. Parts cam in 4 days later and installed the pieces with my trusty screwdriver.
Other Parts Used:
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broken bottom drawer glide and missing rivet on drawer front panel
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Fairborn, OH
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.
The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap ... Read more the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.
The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap ... Read more the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.
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Other Parts Used:
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Bottom drawer
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Saint Michael, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
It was easy to find the part. I ordered it on Sunday and it arrived Wednesday. A stress-free experience.
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