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FGGF304DPFG Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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Oven wouldn't heat - broiler and burners worked fine-Bake Burner Igniter didn't work
190 of 229 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Debbie from Rockford, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It was the week before Thanksgiving and we didn't know what to do without an oven. I did some research on Google and of all the websites out there, I found a decent price here at Parts Select and ordered it on Friday. I was shocked when FEDEX pulled up to the door on Saturday afternoon. I went online to youtube and found a step by step
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video specifically for this part. It's posted by the Repair Clinic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac. I was able to fix the part and probably saved at least $150.00 for a service call and repair time. The part cost about $90 and I was done in less than 15 minutes. We just got this stove about 2 years ago and I'm thinking maybe we could have saved my old stove since it had the same problem. Great job Parts Select - I got just what I needed and saved a ton of money in the process. Thanks also for their great informative video online. We had a great Thanksgiving and were very thankful for all our hot food fresh from the oven.
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The oven would not ignite on bake setting
19 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from NOBLESVILLE, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reading a lot of reviews online, I came to the conclusion it was the bake igniter. The "glow rod" would glow but would not ignite the oven. The broiler would ignite and the top burners would work. I removed the racks, took a screwdriver and removed the 2 screws in the back corners. I then slid the bottom shield towards the back then
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lifted up and the shield came off and exposed the flame shield. I removed the screws the hold that in place on the front of the oven with my 6 way screwdriver. I used the nutdriver part. Lifted that off which exposed the the actual flame tube and bake igniter. There were two screws, used the nutrdiver on the 6 way screwdriver, holding the bake igniter on. The screws are on the side of it. Removed those and the igniter came free. I pulled out the warming drawer and followed the wire from the igniter to a wiring harness. Pulled that apart and pulled the whole thing out through the oven. Got the new part, reversed order of removal. Fired right up. Pretty pricey part. But, saved 500+ dollars for a new range. Actual removal and install of new part, maybe 20 minutes if that. Super easy.
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replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
17 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Stevensville, MD
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. O
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nce there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
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Oven would not ignite, gas smell, igniter glows
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from PORT JEFF STA, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve require
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s 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site
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Top oven overheating
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from NEVADA, MO
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
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Original Meat Probe insulation separated on the probe end
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from PITTSFIELD, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2"
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shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.
I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.
I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.
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Both oven bake and broil elements lost power suddenly at the same time.
8 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alexander from DELMAR, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support
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, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,
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Easy
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from RACINE, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Repair was east but the price I paid through you was 3 times what I found elsewhere. I made a mistake ordering through your expensive company
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Oven would sporadically light when initially turned on
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jessica from PITTSBURGH, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched the you tube video from this website and did the same to my own oven. Much better replacement igniter than was installed in oven from factory and amazing packaging from partselect.com. Thank you!
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The range at a round burner and the wife wanted an oblong one
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cathie from WELLS, NY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 2 3/16 bolts and burner, set the oblong burner over the orifice and we were all done
Other Parts Used:
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sensor should pull into oven enough to easily unsnap and snap but didn't pull out
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from EDGAR, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have
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Our gas oven was taking longer to light, and we were smelling gas. Our adult children were worried about us. Uh-oh...
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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EILEENROMEO from WEBSTER, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I researched the actual problem and found the correct part to order. My husband researched repair videos and saved them until our part arrived. On repair day he pulled the oven away from the wall, turned off the gas to the oven at the shutoff, and unplugged the electric cord. He removed the oven door, baking racks, oven floor, shield unde
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r the oven floor, and storage drawer. It was a little awkward for him to get at the igniter location in the center of the oven. Once he got the old igniter unplugged and the new one in place, he followed the video instructions to plug the electric cord in again to test the new part -- while everything else was still dismantled. The new igniter fired on in just a few seconds and glowed red, just as expected. Successful test! Then he reassembled all the parts, needing a third hand to hold the igniter assembly in place so he could put in the screws. He took his time, and thinks it took him about an hour. I took a golden opportunity to soak the racks and oven floor in Oxi-Clean for an hour, then scrubbed with steel wool (not the unpainted shields!), and eventually the oven front, and inside walls. Once we had everything in place we turned on the oven, listened gratefully to the speedy ignition, and let it run for about 25 minutes. This 20 year old oven looks and works like a new model again -- and it's mostly clean. All in all, this was a fairly easy repair. We've never done this before, and tread carefully through it. We didn't want to mess with gas. Hooray and congratulations! I'm rather proud of him :)
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Gas stove won’t light on half the appliance
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Julieta from ELMIRA, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the pow
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er and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.
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This is stove and convection oven Baker igniter
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from CROSBY, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to pull back off due plug in for bake Ignitor is on bottom right Conner , mfg ill design , part was is to install after that. Parts select is great to deal with first part showed up damage due to shipping , parts select sent another with better packaging , works great have used them in the past for Ref ice maker parts . Due it yoursel
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f save money
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Oven was kicking out error code F1
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from WILLOW SPRING, NC
- Very Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First, I shut the OFF the main breaker. Then, I removed 2 screws holding the thermostat inside the oven. The wiring harness was too short to pull through small opening. I tried to fish the wires out with a piece of wire, but no luck. Eventually, the wiring harness disconnected and I had no choice but to remove entire wall oven from wall c
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avity.
Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.
Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.
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