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FFF384HCB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FFF384HCB
91 - 105 of 192

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temp. probe
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deane from WINCHESTER, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Easy watched on line video
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I had a F31 code which means oven isn't working
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from CHELSEA, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?
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Lens cover for oven light broke.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Amy from Corona, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.
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Broil Element shorted out
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frederick from Pompano Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I unplugged the Stove/Oven electrical cord from the wall, then removed the oven door by unlocking the door brackets with a flat head screw driver then closing the door to the last position before it closes and removing the door from the stove (found instructions on YouTube - very easy, which is optional), then removed the oven racks. Rem oving the door made it a lot easier to access the broil element and element support bracket screws using a socket wrench. I removed the screws from the rear cover on the back of the stove with a socket wrench to access and disconnect the broil element wires with my hand (pliers if needed). I removed the old broil element and inserted and reconnected the new broil element wires, then re-installed the rear cover. I tightened the broil element in place then re-installed the element support bracket and screws, replaced the oven racks, re-installed the oven door and plugged the stove into the wall. This took about twenty minutes and the broil element is working fine.
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My oven door seal was worn and did not seat properly. It leaked heat.The infinite burner was not warming in the low heat positions
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from PALM COAST, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to loc k them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
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Cracked inside glass
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • patti from Greer, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti
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The screw head was stripped and couldn't be extracted with a Phillips head screwdriver
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from GLEN BURNIE, MD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
If you do not intend to take apart the oven door to clean the interior glass, I would recommend you use a clamp to hold the handle and oven door tightly together while you replace the screw. There is a spacer between the back and front panels which could otherwise be shifted out of position. I used a screw extractor to remove the damage d screw and then installed the replacement. Wish all appliance repairs were this easy!
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left terminal broke off from the base of the block causing circuit breaker to trip and not able to be re-set
0 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from North Babylon, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.
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range top left big burner would not come on.
  • ruben from moss point, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.re placed the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,
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replaced the infinite burner switch
  • Alvie from Pasco, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.
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Large burner switch made popping and buzzing noises.
  • Glenda from Miles City, MT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.
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element light staying lit
  • Russell from Glenmoore, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.
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Burner would get hot, but would not turn down.
  • Rick from Montpelier, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch . I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.
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Heating element would not heat
  • Rita from Somerset, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Took bolts out of back of oven ,pull out element had take electric clips off .Then I just plugged in the element ,push in and tighten up bolts. Turn oven on IT Works Yea!!!!!
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Burner would no turn off.
  • ALBERT from BENTONVILLE, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to i t.
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All Instructions for the FFF384HCB
91 - 105 of 192