1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder') 2. Disconnected door switch wires 3. Tore off existing felt
NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.
4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue 5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up
NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.
6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it 7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE) 8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt 9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt 10. Re-attached the existing felt 11. Let the glue set-up overnight 12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away 13. Reconnected the door switch wires 14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt 15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service
NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.
Took off all controls and panel. Removed the top. Pulled out the drum. Unscrewed shaft and bearing holder. Replaced all parts and started it back up. --The parts were shipped timely,
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down 2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet. 3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face. 4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together 5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum 6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out) 7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer 8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time) 9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease 10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum 11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down 12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner 13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet 14) Put the cabinet back together
The Dryer Drum Would Not Move. Motor Worked But Drum Didnt.
First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me. I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
Replaced pump, by removing back panel and removing the two screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine. The only difficult aspect was dealing with the hose clamps, these were extremely awkward to work with in a confined space. The repair would have been less than 30 min if the hose clamps weren't so difficult to put back in place.
A bit iintimidating in trying to get the knob off the timer without breaking it. finally discovered the plastic tip that went straight thru to the back, pulleed it out and walla walla the knob came off easily. Getting to the timer was a bit interesting, was not sure how far I had to tear down the washer/dryer combo front. Once I got to the part it was easy to do. I have three of these machines, two in my daughter's houses so now am dconfident i can repair if needed. Got the wrong part at first and had tosend back for the right on, got the timer for the dryer first. Expensive parts.....
timer wouldnt clock it would just keep washing & washing
I removed the screws holding the access cover in place than the screws in the plastic ends than the screws at the bottom edge of the control panel pulled the button on the back of the timer removed the handles than one screw under the handle area to remove the timer it was easy
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.