FES367CCTC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

Gasket has pins that line up with tiny holes around the perimeter of door. Just pull the old gasket off, and snap new one ( with pins) in . Used the butter knife to push ends of gasket in hole at bottom of door. Took about 2 minutes to complete and looks AWESOME! simple. simple, simple! This company ships immediately and the product is d ... Read more escribed properly. I would buy from this company again!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the ... Read more oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to ... Read more the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two ... Read more screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor ... Read more was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Sque ... Read more ezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.