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oven element broken
The repair was simple; first I removed the 2 screws from the old element and disconnected the wires and then I inserted the new element reconnected the wires and replaced the screws . The repair was easy and took less that 15 min. The oven works as good as new and I saved alot of money by doing it myself.
I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.
I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.
PartsSelect serivce was AMAZING - I ordered online on Sunday afternoon, and the part arrived Tuesday with standard shipping! First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires from the old element, then replaced with new. WARNING - you MUST kill the breaker, because the element is "hot" even when it's off.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics. Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
right side hinge on oven door, not pulling door closed tight enough.
Found that the right hinge spring was sprung loose from its stock position. So I replaced both hinges. Remove the oven door, remove the side trim plate from both sides of the oven door. remove inside of the door to reveal the hinges. replaced both hinges, and replace all covers and put door back on.. I replaced both hinges because if one was wore out the other would not be far behind it.
When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered. When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
I had a fire in the oven and the unit had split apart.
I removed the two screws and then used pliers to pry apart the wiring. I unplugged the connectors and removed the element. The new unit arrived in three days and I plugged it in, replaced the screws and turned the oven on and made a pie! Very Satisfying and easier then I ever thought it would be. We figured we saved $200.00. The service place where we live charges $125.00 to come out and assess and then parts and service on top of that.
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly. I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.