FES350BW0 Estate Range - Instructions
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lower back element stopped working
470 of 561 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bradley from Lexington, OK
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great
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Oven stopped heating.....
243 of 401 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Pattonsburg, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the oven racks....
Removed the two screws holding element in place...
Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
Removed the two screws holding element in place...
Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
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The bake element stopped working.
216 of 364 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harry from Charlotte, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake
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element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.
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the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
88 of 108 people
found this instruction helpful.
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chaz from fairplay, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re
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moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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Uneven heating, red spot on element
101 of 165 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Tigard, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I
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just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.
It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
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Burner would go high without warning
60 of 63 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Clinton, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.
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8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out
61 of 72 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap
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. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
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Bake Element Burned Out
45 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Baton Rouge, LA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replacement was relatively easy. Oven door was pulled off hinges after removing 2 mounting screws nearest the hinges. After shutting off power at the breaker, screws (2 each) holding elements were removed. Elements were pulled into oven ~ 4 inches exposing wiring and clips. The clips pulled free with just a little wiggling by hand and
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were easily pushed back on by hand. Then reverse to finish.
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Socket Light had a bad thread
44 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edmund from Emporium, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove ... Read more r
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove ... Read more r
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Left front burner would not adjust heat downward
35 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ALTON from ROUND ROCK, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull unit away from wall.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new ... Read more switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new ... Read more switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.
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The old switch broke off.
34 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Pasadena, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.
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Broken oven door inner glass
29 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Commerce Township, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first removed the two screws (located on the inner side of the door about halfway from the top) which hold the hinges to the door. With the screws removed, I was able to remove the entire door by grasping the door on each side and puling up and sliding the door away from the hinges.
The rest involves deconstructing the door ... Read more by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.
You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.
The rest involves deconstructing the door ... Read more by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.
You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.
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Burner was not heating up
33 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Hellertown, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.
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1 had 2 large burners not working at all, and was cooking everything on the 2 smaller burners
27 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Lebanon, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.
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8" Burner element intermittent, unable to control.
25 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Enfield, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Easy.... UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE 240 VOLT OUTLET & READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW PART !! Removed upper rear cover panel 8 screws & removed panel, removed knob & 2 screws from front of control unit (on the control panel), pulled the control off the panel from the rear, removed the wires on the rear of control & connected th
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em to the SAME terminals on the new control (one at a time). Then installed the new control by reversing the procedure above. Took about 15 minutes. IMPORTANT HINTS: 1) Make sure you save the little black pressure clip from the control stem on the new control, if you need to break-off the little part at the end of the stem. You will need to push the clip back into the recess on the new stem, in order for the knob to stay on the stem when you put it back on; 2) Use a needle-nose plier to pull the wire clips from the old control terminals & push them onto the same terminals on the new control, one at a time so the wiring is correct.
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