FES300ASF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Based on previous responses we anticipated this repair to be easy, however, it was a little more challenging than expected. The method of repair was easy enough, just would have been better if there had been more wire to pull out to connect to the new bake element. It took two of us to fish for the wires back inside the stove with a needl ... Read more e-nose pliers after removing the element. One had to hold the wire with the pliers while it took the other to attach it to the new element with second pair of pliers as there was no room for using fingers. Retrieving and attaching the second wire to the element was even more challenging because now the half-attached element was in the way. Disappointed and not sure why the element burned out in the first place on a 4year old appliance.

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.

First I removed the 2 screws that held it in place.
Then I took te screws out of the backguard cover and pulled it down so that I would get to it. Then I unplugged the wires, and replugged them on the new switch, then screwed it back in to the range, then put all the screws back in backguard cover, and plugged the range back up and p ... Read more ut it back in its place. It was real easy.

The range, (1988 Tappan) was givin to the church by one of our members. While using it, --after a period of time-- the wire burnt off to one of the burners. Since the couple gave us a brand new top for the stove that was still in the box, we decided to fix the stove up.
Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans ... Read more and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen.
The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order,
This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.

1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. May ... Read more be use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the origin ... Read more al envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked ... Read more the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

Generally straight forward repair with the most difficulty coming from the screws holding the element in place being rusted. Took some wd40 and some snub-nosed pliers to get them out. The wire connections on the back of the element are pretty self explanatory. Lightbulb was an easy change though the bulb connection had also rusted a bit a ... Read more nd required some pliers to remove.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.