FEP330EW0 Roper Range - Instructions
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Ugly looking drip bowl.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Irina from Green Cove Springs, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Repair? What repair? I just removed the old drip bowl and replaced it with the new one. Piece of cake.
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Oven not heating properly
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Greenville, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Unplug the oven, pull it out and empty the inside of the oven. The bottom heating element just unscrews from the back of the oven with two screws. Pull it out from the back of the oven and gently pull off the electrical connections. Reattach them to the new heating element, put it back into the oven and reattach the screws. Turn the o
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ven on and check to make sure that the new heating element is working. Put everything back in the oven and you're done!
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Block broke
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from Crimora, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done
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range handle fell off and screw got lost
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frances from palm beach gardens, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.
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Both outside door handles turned very beige
23 of 76 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol
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oring refer handles. Thank you
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Drawer glide was missing and the trim on the door was broken
12 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from Lakewood, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Ordered the replacement part., removed the old trim from the door and reinstalled the new trim. On the drawer glide, I simply reattached a new one to replace the one missing.
Other Parts Used:
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corroded, rusted drip bowls
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Noah from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
replace
Other Parts Used:
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oven element burnt out
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JoAnne from Harrison, AR
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
unscrew two screws..took old element out, put perfect fit new element in,screw two screws back in.
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top element was burnt out small burn hole in element
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Gregory from kissimmee, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed the screws that were on back side of oven securing panel that covered element terminals disconnected wiring to upper element then went in side oven area removing 4 upper mount screws that were holding upper element in place then removed old element and reinstalled new in same order was removed..
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Broil heater exploded. The corner was burned/ corroded.
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Amadeusz from Simi Valley, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean
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oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.
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the bottom hinge pin fell out and door was loose
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Peggy from Ogden, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for b
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eing a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.
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Bottom oven heating element burned out
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Jan from Columbus, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Only difficult because one heating element connector broken off. Before receiving correct part, tried to install generic element, which had leads about 2 inches too long, so trying to force into place bent electrical connectors that go from oven to heating element. Tried to bend one back and it broke off, so did not bend 2nd one back.
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Received correct heating element, and slid unbroken connector on one element side, and soldered 2nd element on. Screwed heating element in and it works fine.
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8 Inch electric burner not getting hot
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John from Dover, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was
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getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)
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lower element burned out
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Ann from Weston, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
So easy. Unplug the range. (really important. You're working with wiring after all) Unscrew the metal plate holding the bake element in place, gently pull out the wires and detach the element from them. (the element just pulls off, but it was attached pretty tightly so I did have to use needlenose pliers to get a better grip on it.) The
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n simply plug in the new bake element, push the wires back in, reattach the metal plate and bake a cake! Don't even think about calling a repairman for this one! It took under 10 minutes once I got around to ordering the element. (none of the local stores carried them)
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Left front 8 inch burner knob control stop regulating heat temprature.
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Alfred from Ann Arbor, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.
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