FEF358CFSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

First took apart oven door. then took out broken glass and replaced with new glass.Put everything back together done.

I used good old commom sense to disassemble and reassemble the frame, handle, internal glass,and inter panel to reach and repace the cracked glass. I must admit I had two machine screws left over during reassembly, but found a home. It is important to identify where each and every screw belongs. This will cut down your repair time. I thank PartSelect for providing great service and assisting me in my time of need.

Marv Dixon

After a brief discussion with CS about the electric stove part was shipped it arrived and I proceeded to install I found it needed to be installed sideways not up & down like the old one. The terminals did not line up so I put the black lead first and the purple lead last in doing that I burned out the switch??? was not easy to install as the video showed his switch matched each wire? My installation was sideways??

I follow the video on your site

Unplugged the stove first !
Removed bake element ; (2 screws), looked OK,
measured with an Ohm meter, measured "open".
Also, removed rear cover (6-screws), wires not burnt. Ordered new element-rec'd next day! My wife installed it and replaced rear cover. Works great (oven!) and about $10 cheaper and quicker than from a local dealer!

First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

Screw the handle, that it...

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test