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F14F2CDYP2 LG Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the F14F2CDYP2
61 - 75 of 118

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Water was not draining and was making a grinding noise
  • Chris from Walla Walla, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This was very easy to instal. The aplaiance repair co. wanted $240 my LG is six years old and would rather buy a new one if I had to spend that much, so I gave it a shot and it took me 20 min to install the part. Told my wife she owed me $ 180 for my labor.
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Water was leaking from under the washer.
  • Richard from Blue Bell, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a s ocket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.
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Water will not Drain
  • Nate-Talisha from Miramar, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
took out the drain pump and replace with a new one
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my lg washer wasnt draining
  • chris from glenwood springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful
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water would not drain, nothing jamming pump
  • nicole from chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.
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It was torn and leaking.
  • Denise from Show Low, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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Leaking Hot Water Inlet VBalve
  • JOEL from BIXBY, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phi llips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.
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My Washer was leaking
  • Bruce from West Hills, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you
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the water inlet was leaking
  • gerald from wis dells, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done
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Water inlet valve coil was leaking water.
  • Robert from Asheville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.
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h2o filled w/o stopping
  • sherman from BROKEN ARROW, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks
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Hot Water Inlet valve (solinoid valve leaking)
  • MARVIN from MARYVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arri ved 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy
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Washer will not drain, bad noise coming from bottom front of washer
  • James from Kingman, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.
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Washer would not drain
  • Eugenio from West Valley City, UT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Tipped the washer on its side to expose the bottom, removed the plastic lid adjacent to the pump after removing the screws holding it , then, using a flat head on a pry tab pulled out the pump, removed the hoses with pliers to complete the extraction, swapped the pump on my bench. . assembly is reverse of disassembly. .
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Pool of water under washer after a run
  • Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
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All Instructions for the F14F2CDYP2
61 - 75 of 118