F1305FDM (ASTEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Humming, no error code, not spinning
-
Brian from Camden, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and
... Read more
it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Will not start after dorr is closed. Shows Code dE. Door locks properly, two clicking is heard before code shows up.
-
Juan from Anaheim, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequenc
... Read more
e. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My Washing Machine was not draining properly
-
matt from Fuquay Varina, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bellows had developed a small hole
-
Verle from Malcolm, NE
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
It was torn and leaking.
-
Denise from Show Low, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
water would not drain, nothing jamming pump
-
nicole from chicago, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Drum not rotating
-
Jim from Oak ridge, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced rotor assembly by removing the back panel off the washer. Removed center bolt to be able to take out roto assembly. Magnets made it a little resistant, but with a little wiggling came off fairly easily.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Leaking Hot Water Inlet VBalve
-
JOEL from BIXBY, OK
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phi
... Read more
llips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Washer will not drain, bad noise coming from bottom front of washer
-
James from Kingman, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off.
... Read more
There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
bearing went out in pump
-
JOE from ARANSAS PASS, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Tilt the unit back. Remove screws that hold the clean out. Disconnect the electric plugs and hoses. Remove pumps and housing. Change out pumps. Put back together reverse order
Other Parts Used:
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Water not draining from tub, error code "OE"
-
Robert from Ogdensburg, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Increasingly noisey while on spin cyle
-
Craig from Pisek, ND
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power. Removed washer top, upper front control panel, and front panel. Removed hoses from washer drum housing. Removed cabling and support springs and stabilizers. Removed drum housing from cabinet. Removed bolts that secure the two halves of housing. Removed rotor from drum shaft. Removed stator from housing. Supported drum
... Read more
housing and with hammer and punch, removed drum shaft from bearings. Replaced bearings and seal and reassembled in reverse order.
Read less
Other Parts Used:
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Washer not spinning and giving error message OE
-
Allan from Virginia Beach, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is comm
... Read more
on for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Cloged Drain
-
Darryl from chicago, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock
... Read more
and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My door boot seal, part K 510 in the blow up parts diagram , had a hole in it and the washer was leaking.
-
gary from Oklahoma City, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair
... Read more
the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!