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F1201FDU9 LG Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the F1201FDU9
91 - 105 of 163

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my lg washer wasnt draining
  • chris from glenwood springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful
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Humming, no error code, not spinning
  • Brian from Camden, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.
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It was torn and leaking.
  • Denise from Show Low, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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My Washing Machine was not draining properly
  • matt from Fuquay Varina, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.
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water would not drain, nothing jamming pump
  • nicole from chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.
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The bolt on the motor rotor loosened allowing the motor shaft to wallow out the plastic bushing in the rotor.
  • william from Mobile, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.
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My Washer was leaking
  • Bruce from West Hills, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you
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the water inlet was leaking
  • gerald from wis dells, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done
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Water inlet valve coil was leaking water.
  • Robert from Asheville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.
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Magnetic door plunger broke
  • JACK from Kingston, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Super easy to find the part thanks to their diagrams. This fix was easy but I would definitely use this site again.
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h2o filled w/o stopping
  • sherman from BROKEN ARROW, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks
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Hot Water Inlet valve (solinoid valve leaking)
  • MARVIN from MARYVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arri ved 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy
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Not pumping out water
  • Patrick from Ronkonkoma, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.
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Bellows had developed a small hole
  • Verle from Malcolm, NE
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!
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Leaking Hot Water Inlet VBalve
  • JOEL from BIXBY, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phi llips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.
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All Instructions for the F1201FDU9
91 - 105 of 163