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EW3LGF65GSD Electrolux Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the EW3LGF65GSD
1 - 15 of 62

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Oven wouldn't heat - broiler and burners worked fine-Bake Burner Igniter didn't work
190 of 229 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debbie from Rockford, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It was the week before Thanksgiving and we didn't know what to do without an oven. I did some research on Google and of all the websites out there, I found a decent price here at Parts Select and ordered it on Friday. I was shocked when FEDEX pulled up to the door on Saturday afternoon. I went online to youtube and found a step by step video specifically for this part. It's posted by the Repair Clinic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac. I was able to fix the part and probably saved at least $150.00 for a service call and repair time. The part cost about $90 and I was done in less than 15 minutes. We just got this stove about 2 years ago and I'm thinking maybe we could have saved my old stove since it had the same problem. Great job Parts Select - I got just what I needed and saved a ton of money in the process. Thanks also for their great informative video online. We had a great Thanksgiving and were very thankful for all our hot food fresh from the oven.
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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
76 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Centennial, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
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oven did not heat up
73 of 130 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from ASHAWAY, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.
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oven temp not consistent with setting
72 of 157 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from spring, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
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anti-tip bracket not installed
35 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Panama City Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act f ast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
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The oven would not ignite on bake setting
19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from NOBLESVILLE, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reading a lot of reviews online, I came to the conclusion it was the bake igniter. The "glow rod" would glow but would not ignite the oven. The broiler would ignite and the top burners would work. I removed the racks, took a screwdriver and removed the 2 screws in the back corners. I then slid the bottom shield towards the back then lifted up and the shield came off and exposed the flame shield. I removed the screws the hold that in place on the front of the oven with my 6 way screwdriver. I used the nutdriver part. Lifted that off which exposed the the actual flame tube and bake igniter. There were two screws, used the nutrdiver on the 6 way screwdriver, holding the bake igniter on. The screws are on the side of it. Removed those and the igniter came free. I pulled out the warming drawer and followed the wire from the igniter to a wiring harness. Pulled that apart and pulled the whole thing out through the oven. Got the new part, reversed order of removal. Fired right up. Pretty pricey part. But, saved 500+ dollars for a new range. Actual removal and install of new part, maybe 20 minutes if that. Super easy.
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trouble code F10 low oven temperature, oven not overheating,low resistance reading on ohm meter
19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael J from STATEN ISLAND, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.
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oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jess from DEWEY, OK
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull ol d probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
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Range would start beeping and needed to be unplugged.
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from TURNERSVILLE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.
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oven bottom had foil stuck on it would not come off
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ronald from brownsburg, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the bottom panel I then pulled the panel out and put the new panle in and put the two screws back in
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replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Stevensville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. O nce there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
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Oven would not ignite, gas smell, igniter glows
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from PORT JEFF STA, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve require s 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site
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burnt in aluminum foil...unable to remove
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lamoni, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that
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Rusted leveling foot
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melinda from Three Rivers, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
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Original Meat Probe insulation separated on the probe end
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from PITTSFIELD, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2" shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.

I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.
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All Instructions for the EW3LGF65GSD
1 - 15 of 62