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EW30GS65GBA Electrolux Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the EW30GS65GBA
16 - 30 of 242

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Gas Oven did not come on. Broiler worked.
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STAR, ID
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.
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Stove pilot not clicking on any burner, oven works fine
15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Colin from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug the range. Remove screw to Take of the back panel on upper right corner. Unclip the old spark module, unplug the wires with the needle nose pliers and plug them into the new spark module same as the old module. Clip it on. Replace the back panel.
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Oven wouldn't heat up / ignitor was bad
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Sandusky, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!
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Oven would not light
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from Verona, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the c onnector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.
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The oven would not fire up.
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • edward from smithtown, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I searched the item I needed and followed a link to PartSelect.com. I paid a little extra for shipping and literally recieved the part in two days. The part was an absolute perfect fit and my wife and myself have never been happier. Home cooked meals again thanks to the folks at PartSelect.com. It couldn't have been an easier.
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Oven would not light
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from LONG BRANCH, NJ
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.
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oven would not light -igniter was on
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from South Amboy, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
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The oven would take forever to heat up, and sometimes not at all. Othertimes it would heat up, but not stay hot for the entire baking time.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Los Angeles, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of t he oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
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Top oven overheating
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from NEVADA, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
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Ignitor glows but not hot enough to open the gas valve. It's old.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from MESQUITE, TX
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My Tappan Tail:

Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.

Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behi nd the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.

Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.

I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.

You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.

What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.
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Thermostat for oven cook elements. Cooling fan is a misnomer-the fan still worked!
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Betty from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
  • Very Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First of all I am not Betty, I am her husband. Second I and a friend pulled the range out of the countertop (which was not necessary). The top can be raised on it hinges and the plate under the burners can be removed by taking out 8 to 19 screws and there is the thermostat looking at you. After doing this once and knowing where the thermo stat is, the job could be done in less that an hour.. INSTRUCTIONS: Turn OFF the circuit breaker. Remove the burners. Remove the plate under the burners. Change the thermostat (making sure to place in correct direction as the one removed). Reassemble, turn on circuit breaker, test oven heat.
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Broken ; oven door inner glass
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Garland Futrell from CHESAPEAKE, VA
  • Very Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.
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Crack in inner door glass
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Richmond, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to re assemble.
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gas oven won't light
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.
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Original Meat Probe insulation separated on the probe end
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from PITTSFIELD, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2" shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.

I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.
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All Instructions for the EW30GS65GBA
16 - 30 of 242