EPF7-51819AE Hardwick Range - Instructions

I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel.
Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets.
The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly.
Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.

Unplug Stove removed screws pulled out
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the screws that held the element and disconnected it. Placed the new element in the proper place, connected the wiring, and replaced all the screws. The unit worked beautifully, and all is well. My wife is happy.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.

I removed the screws holding the bezel, removed the control panel frame, unhooked the four wires from the timer, and removed the timer. I cut the glue holding the circuit board into the frame and removed the circuit board. I unsoldered the faulty encoder switch, dissassembled the switch, determined the correct specifications for the switch, and ordered the nearest equivalent from an electronics supplier. I modified the new encoder to accept the shaft from the old encoder and I re-drilled the circuit board to fit the new encoder. I then soldered and wired the encoder, reversing the wires to correct the direction of rotation. I then reinstalled everything and added the knob purchased from partselect.com. Now it works. Tough repair - not for the faint of heart or those of average skill. But for the record, installing the knob was of course child's play and took only a moment.

In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw driver is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.

I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

We at first thought the replacement could be done by just removing 2 screws.
When in fact it was necessary to pull the oven from the cabinet, remove the rear metal shield in order to unplug the element.
The job went rather smoothly at a considerably less cost than if I had contacted a repair service which would have upped the price of the element plus the cost for the service call.

Oven door is the removable type, so once removed the problem with the door was revealed. Metal on the bottom of the hinge had broken off where the hinge attaches to the pivot point on the oven door. The oven was pulled out a few inches from the cabinet and a cable attached to the top of the hinge and a spring on the rear of the oven was detached to remove old hinge. New hinge was installed and I was left with the task of attaching the spring cable. With an old piece of electrical wire, I formed a loop and reached back to the area where the spring was located. Then looped the spring with the wire and pulled forward which made it's attachment very easy. Pushed oven back into place and slid door back on hinge. Pretty easy with a little bit of help from an old piece of wire.

The new hinges couldn't be used because there were no threads where the screws go into the bracket! What should have been an easy job turned into a frustrating day. My husband would have had to try to find a tap & die set to thread it. We took the springs off and used our old hinges. Very, very frustrating. Our old bracket had been bent when the springs broke and door fell, so that bracket had to be straightened first since we couldn't use the new brackets.

Although normally a push fit, we drilled and tapped a #6-32 cross hole and used a set-screw to attach the small knob.

The original knob is still hiding somewhere but, thanks to PartSelect we are back in business !

Simple. Without instructions. We did what was obviously needed in disassembling and reassembling parts. It took both of us. I was just holding parts together.