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ED20AKXSW03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the ED20AKXSW03
31 - 45 of 497

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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refrigerator would not stay cold
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allan from Allen, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The wife found if we tapped the knob for the cold control the appliance would turn on. Upon further inspection I found what looked to be carbon particles under the part. I found the part easily with partselect.com, ordered it, installed it and its like we have a new appliance.
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Refrigerator stop working
23 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SAL from UPLAND, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the relay and over load and exam. Saw that the relay was burnt. Before I order the part I check to see if the compressor was still working by jumping the common start and run terminals.It did. I also checked the start capacitor with a capacitor tester it was good. I than order the part which came the very next day.Installe d the part
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greezer started to thaw and would not refreeze
21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from Redmond, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
tested thermostat and defrost time but both tested as working...called a repairman who came in and said they were both working...got annnoyed for not trusting myself. Repairman did say that he had seen defrost timers simply slow down, allwoing them to tesat as good but not actually working correctly. I ordered both the thermostat and the timer to cover all bases...actual replacement was simple.
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Unable to set the cold-control to a sufficiently cold setting.
36 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Lewisport, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now .
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Water leaking from under refrigerator.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from DELRAN, NJ
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for le ak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
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freezer intermitently warmed to around 31 degrees
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • brett from garland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my b elief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.
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Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Cedarville, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
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light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bill from escondido, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
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The refrigerator door made a terrible bang every time it was opened.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hank from Seattle, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firml y. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!
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I had frost build-up in the freezer.
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arnold, ME
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
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Refrigerator quit refrigerating
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Hudson, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
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My Fan in the Freezer was making a loud noise
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Imperial, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I went on the web to search for parts, did my screening of companies, and chose Partselect.com
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Parts elect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Noise coming from defrost timer
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Pottstown, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
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My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brandon from Fort Wayne, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever a nd I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
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All Instructions for the ED20AKXSW03
31 - 45 of 497