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ECBS68WJ2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ECBS68WJ2WW
1 - 15 of 113

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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Oven sensor was not holding temperature range.
48 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CHARLA from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Per the instructions included with part.
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Heating element burned out.
41 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LANCE from ORELAND, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
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Broiler burnt out.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ellen from centennial, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; fi nally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.
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Left rear element would not get hot.
19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it in to the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
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defective temp. sensor
20 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Armand from COVENTRY, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
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When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Cypress, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
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Oven rack missing when I purchased the house
18 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.
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Broiler element was burned out
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ursula from Suffolk, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.
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Oven was not reaching or maintaining temperature.
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Madrid, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Broiler Element Wouldn't Heat
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ranse from Layton, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.
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Needed extra oven space
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • noreen from flushing, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
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All Instructions for the ECBS68WJ2WW
1 - 15 of 113