E23CS78ESS2 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

It was real easy took the lines off one by one put them on the new unit one by one same with the three plugs than tighten new unit back on fridge.

Easy-Breezy - took pockets out of door, lifted door out of socket, took out broken bearing - some had to be pried out and pulled out with pliers. Once out, inserted the new bearing and put the door back on by lifting into the top hinge and then letting it down into the receiver at the bottom. It took longer to clean out and put back the door pockets than it did to make the repair. Wish I had done it sooner. I am 76 and female. Should have done this a couple of years ago. Didn't know the problem until I found a part of a hinge on the floor beside the refrigerator. Then it dawned on me what might be wrong so I went online and found that "clicking" was a common problem and what to do - ordered the replacement hinge bearing and made the fix.

took the screw out of the white flange on the top of the door that attaches to the top of the refrigerator. Then removed the cover , and the two screws attached to the refrigerator top. Then lifted off the door removed the bottom plate that is holding the plastic door holder. and replaced the broken part and replaced the bottom plate , set the door back on the hinge and installed the top two screws and the flange cover and the last screw holding the flange cover in place. It actually took longer to type this than the repair

I got the part, hitched it up and it started working right away it fit in easily, and the directions were easy to follow thank you

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Downloaded a schematic of the ice container. Disassembled the ice container, keeping track of which different type of screws went where. Followed the schematic to ensure proper sequence of blades and spacers. Manually rotated unit prior to installing into the freezer in case of binding. Finished.

PURCHASE:
Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the
terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the
wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached
is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner
liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple
crimp splice and shrink tube.

TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available,
it is highly recommended that the new part be tested:
You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one
very easily per instructions found on line.
TEST RESULTS-
a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open".
b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an
hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".

I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally
one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.

HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT):
A) Prep
Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm.
Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily.
Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make
re-installing the many components easier.
Gather tools from the attached list.

B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)

C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may
get in the eyes.)

D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers)
1) ) Upper Drawer:
a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are
on each side, toward the rear of the drawer.
b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and
lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4".
c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a
5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver.
d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer.
Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs.
e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly
to clear the track.
f) Put the drawer out of the way.

2) Lower Drawer With Front Door
*Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when
reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap.
a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door
can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor.
b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way
to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs.
c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling
is required. Repeat on the other side.
d) Drag the towel and door out of the way

D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer.
1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger.
It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket.
2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip
to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out.
3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be
removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the
left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.

E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off)
1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold.
2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside.
3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way.
4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.

F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall)
1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free.
2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover &
thread the thermistor free.
3) Set the cover aside.

G) Remove The back Wall
1) Remove all visible hex head screws.
2) The back wall can now be removed.
3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges
are a little sharp

H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation
or plastic components will be damaged.

I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner.
The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.

J) Install The New Thermostat
Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the
correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)

removed ice denspenser and replaced spring and flap'

The repair was fast and easy .I removed the ice tray , disconnected the wiring connector and lossend two screws. I removed ice maker assy.and repeated in reverse order to install. I also installed a new water filter. I had ice in about 20 minutes.

Installed a new Defrost Thermostat.

Unplugged refrigerator from the wall plug. Removed ice tray cover, removed ice container, lossen the two screws on the ice marker holding it to the back of the fridge, dropped the ice marker down and unplugged the electrical connection. Then removed the ice maker.
Took the new ice marker, plugged the electrical connection back into the back of the new ice marker, screwed the two screws back in where the ice marker goes and tighen the screws to told the ice marker in place.
Replaced the ice container, replaced the ice cover.
Plugged the fridge electrical cord back in to the wall socket.
Done.
It started making ice again in about 10 minutes.

Remove the old ice maker by loosening the screws and disconnect wire harness , next fit new ice maker in place connect wire harness and place new ice maker in place put screws in and tighten.

Followed video on your site. It was very helpful.
Thank you.

Loosened the 2 bolts 4 turns where it mounts inside the freezer. Lift maker off the bolts unplug 1 plug. Reverse to install.