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DSE26JSEDCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the DSE26JSEDCSS
31 - 45 of 1452

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Bad Ice Auger Motor
57 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark A. from Port Byron, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Things I learned...remove only the two far left screws and one far right screw from the ice auger motor mounting plate. Disconnect both wiring harness connectors. With the assembly removed from the freezer, you'll need to get the motor seperated from the drive mechanism (fork). This was the most difficult part of the repair. The reaso n is that the fork (which is reverse threaded) cannot be unthreaded independantly of the motor shaft (ie. they both turn together). Locking pliers on the shaft only stripped metal from the shaft and did not supply enough torque to remove the fork. The way I finally did it was to take the old motor partially apart, then lock the gear case (keeping the shaft from rotating) with the motor's own splined internal rotor shaft. Once I finally got the fork apart from the motor shaft, swapping out motors was simple. You'll need to put the old plastic glove on the new motor to keep it dry. Also, the replacement motor I got from partselect.com did not come with threaded mounting bolt holes. Therefore, I had to use slightly larger self tapping screws I got from the hardware store. I also used locking washers as the assembly is subject to vibration.
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Water Leaking @ Quick Releases (Blue and White)
57 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • randy from vancouver, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Had previously replace the plastic Water Tank, but when installing it I didn't realize how the quick connects worked. Instead of simply pushing inward in the direction of the blue part of the disconnect, I had pulled out the white ring on the outside of the disconnects. This ruined the inside connections and caused them to leak thus req uiring these repairs. Had I known that I wouldnt have bought these parts too. Just Always REMEMBER to push in outside white ring on the quick disconnect and as you push it in pull out the hose when you remove it. To put the hose back in, just push it back in without pushing on ring this time at all and it will lock in place, and shouldn't be leaking. I had to run water into a glass to test if it was leaking, otherwise the line had no water pressure.
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Gasket wasn't sealing
52 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Succasunna, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible
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Not cold & saw ice accumulated on freezer back panel
52 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eddie from Freeport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain al l water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!
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ice maker tube would freeze up
50 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from Chesterfield, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
installed new double water outlet and tube assembly and it fixed the promblem. I think the water valve was leaking by causing the tube to freeze up inside.
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water and ice maker stopped working
47 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Sandston, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the cover on the bottom of the rear of the fridge and the top left of the fridge where the tubbes exit.. Then just simply disconnect the tube coming from the fridge and the supply line. Next go inside the fridge, remove the cover of the filter mount, and remove the 2 screws securing the filter mount in place. Now pull the tubes t hrough the opening and reinstall in reverse order.
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fridge side freezes some items
55 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Murfreesboro, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wr apped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.
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Ice door would not open far enough, ice would get stuck in chute
73 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ERIC from MADISON, AL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugge d into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
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freezer cold / fridge warm
46 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Mancos, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go
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Water dispenser leaked - tubing broke
48 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Poway, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Ordered parts from another vendor - got wrong parts (1/4 in parts instead of 5/16 in parts). With your parts, I just cut out the bad portion of the tubing, and replaced it using the 2 union connectors. Thanks.
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Ice maker wasn't pushing the ice out the door
41 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scarlett from Midlothian, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My teenage daughter and myself (2 women!)completed this task with little issue! I first made sure to read others stories as not to repeat any issues they had. Just member the threads are backwards with taking the washer end off and everything will go easy. We are both kinda handy with repair items so if that describes you than you should be fine.
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Cold water reservoir tank was cracked and spraying the interior of the fridge
41 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Waynesboro, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Symptom was water running out of bottom of fridge. Found water pooled up under bottom drawer. Removed (3) drawers and found water was "spraying" from the reservoir tank at back of fridge. Unboxed the new "tank" and confirmed it was the right one by holding it up to the one still in the fridge. Pulled fridge from the wall; removed the rear bottom cover panel on the back using the nutdriver. Removed the solenoid assy by taking that single hex screw out. Push down on the blue circular flange where tube supply enters solenoid, and release the tubing from the solenoid. Remove front bottom cover with phillips screwdriver. Located 2nd tubing connector below freezer (under the unit) and used the same procedure to release that tube from the coupling. Removed screws from tank on inside of fridge, after removing several shelves that were in front of it. Pulled the tubing from the old unit up and out. Discard. Got new unit and fed tubes through the hole the others came out of (back right corner of fridge) MAKE SURE THE NEW TUBES HAVE THEIR "stoppers" IN PLACE. You don't want to contaminate the new tubes with insulation or other debris. Make sure the "o" ring that seals the tubes on the inside of the fridge (supplied with new unit)and the styrofoam insulation stays in place to keep air from leaking through the holes the tubes go through. Installation of the (2) tubes is simple, simply push them into the connector on the solenoid, and the coupler under the freezer. You'll need to feed the longer tube from the back to the front left corner where this coupler is. After making the connection, I bolted the solenoid unit back to the fridge (only 1 screw) and then tested the unit to see there were no leaks before I buttoned everything up. NO LEAKS!! Put the front bottom grill back on with the (2) phillips screws, and the back bottom cover back on with the hex screws removed near the beginning. Probably took longer to write this than it did to make the repair.
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Ice maker dispensed crushed ice but not cubes
44 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Greenville, NC
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap ou t neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.
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The partion between the tub and dispenser broke
36 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Brandon, MS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Once I got the correct part, (the expanded view of the icemaker is confusing as it shows the partition at the back of the diagram) I removed the ice dispenser from the tub by removing the screws and disengage the tabs holding the dispenser assembly in the tub. The most difficult step was getting the disenser disengaged from the tub. I use d two kitchen knives to wedge between the walls of the tub. It was then easy to remove and replace the broken inside partition and reassemble the dispenser. Works like new.
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Ice maker quit making ice
40 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Bluefield, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.
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All Instructions for the DSE26JSEDCSS
31 - 45 of 1452