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DM15K-15B-N Magic Chef Microwave - Instructions
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microwave oven blew fuse
27 of 43 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
tad from tamarack, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With th
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e help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix
.
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arm on door release button broke
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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RICK from CASEY, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First i removed the 3 phillips head screws from the back of the microwave,these hold the wrap around cover in place, then slid the wrap around cover off towards the back side of microwave, next from inside the microwave i removed 1 screw holding the front operating panel, this screw is located staight up from the push button towards the
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top of the microwave, I pulled the panel out enough to get the broken push button out, then i installed the new push button,then reinstalled the operating panel then the wrap around cover, very simple repair saved a lot of money by replacing the part rather than buying a new microwave.
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microve stopped working
15 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Denice from Montgomery, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise
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Died while heating lasagna
9 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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connie from madison, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.
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Microwave went pop and nothing would work.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Deborah from STRUM, WI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that
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is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.
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Door release button broke on the inside of microwave so door would not open
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Burton, MI
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pryed face plate away from body and removed broken latch, replaced with new latch/release button (just sets in place) and pressed faceplate back into position. The beauty of all this is, I ordered this part on line, late on a Tuesday evening and had it in hand by Thursday afternoon!
Well done! Thank you!
Well done! Thank you!
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Light Bulb
6 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terri from Kingsland, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!
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burnt out lightbulb for over 20 years
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kathtleen from Bristol, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb
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Oven not working, and Replaced burned tray - two repairs
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rudy from La Verne, CA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Hi.
I'd be glad to share this repair story - it wasn't too difficult, and it saved a lot of time and money! I'm including model numbers so that anyone who googles these combinations will have all the info they need to get their Magic Chef oven looking like new and working.
I have a 1995 25' Winnebago Warrior RV (Mod ... Read more el WCD25RU), and the original built-in Magic Chef 700 watt microwave (no turntable) (Winnebago part 115303-01-000, Magic Chef Model number DM15K-7BS-N) stopped working.
I've tried finding a replacement built-in oven, but there are none out there that fit very well - you'd have to make some modifications to the cabinet opening to accomodate any replacement oven (either make the opening smaller to accomodate a smaller replacement, or make the opening bigger and beef up the support structure to accomodate a bigger, heavier replacement that is rated at a higher wattage, which may or may not be suitable for the existing electrical system and generator).
In any event, buying the replacement parts cost me $135.00. Buying a replacement oven and built-in vents/ducts/brackets would have cost me about $350-$400.00, and would have taken a lot longer, and might have looked ugly in the end.
The light would work when opening the door, but nothing else worked - no clock, fan, nothing else. It turns out that the control board's one-shot thermostatic switch burned out from an over-voltage (surge from the badly running generator, or from a bad RV park connection can't tell which caused it). The moral of that story is that you should get a quality 30amp surge-suppressor and plug it into the outlet inside the electrical cord storage box so it will provide protection against either the generator or an external power source.
I found the replacement board (your part number PS94415, Magic Chef # 51001053R), plus a new bottom tray (plastic white tray your part number PS94528, Magic Chef # 51001213). I took out the old control board, installed the replacement (51001053R), and then took out the old burned plastic tray (the plastic can burn if you place anything not microwave-proof directly on the plastic tray - i.e. a popcorn bag) and replaced it with your tray. Here's how I did the repairs:
1) removed built-in microwave by unscrewing the two phillips screws holding the top-mounted black leuvered plastic vent in place, then unscrewed the remaining 4 phillips screws behind this vent, which hold the top of the microwave/casing/vents in place. Removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom front of the microwave, which holds the bottom bracket of the microwave in place. Note: All 8 phillips mounting screws are the same size - no need to keep track of where each screw came from.
2) opened cabinet to the left of the microwave and unplugged the microwave cord and shoved the cord and plug-end back through the access hole it came out of.
3) Slid the microwave out of the cabinet opening and onto the dinette table, tilted it onto it's back, then removed the three phillips screws holding the bottom bracket to the microwave, and removed the bracket.
4) Removed the 3 phillips screws in the back of the oven holding the casing in place (one at the top-middle and one on at each mid-side) and pulled the "built-in" casing backwards away from the front of the microwave until it came completely away from the oven, then set it aside. (There are two continous metal clips running top-to-bottom, wich are spot-welded to the inside of each side of the casing even with the front-edges of the casing - these clips secure the front edges of the casing against the sides of the microwave frame).
5) Removed the one sheet-metal screw holding the touch-panel/control board assembly in place against the microwave frame (located at the top of the frame, above and behind the back of the control-board ). Opened the microwave door then grasped both sides of the touch-panel assembly and pulled straight up to disengage the two plastic touch-panel hooks from the sl
I'd be glad to share this repair story - it wasn't too difficult, and it saved a lot of time and money! I'm including model numbers so that anyone who googles these combinations will have all the info they need to get their Magic Chef oven looking like new and working.
I have a 1995 25' Winnebago Warrior RV (Mod ... Read more el WCD25RU), and the original built-in Magic Chef 700 watt microwave (no turntable) (Winnebago part 115303-01-000, Magic Chef Model number DM15K-7BS-N) stopped working.
I've tried finding a replacement built-in oven, but there are none out there that fit very well - you'd have to make some modifications to the cabinet opening to accomodate any replacement oven (either make the opening smaller to accomodate a smaller replacement, or make the opening bigger and beef up the support structure to accomodate a bigger, heavier replacement that is rated at a higher wattage, which may or may not be suitable for the existing electrical system and generator).
In any event, buying the replacement parts cost me $135.00. Buying a replacement oven and built-in vents/ducts/brackets would have cost me about $350-$400.00, and would have taken a lot longer, and might have looked ugly in the end.
The light would work when opening the door, but nothing else worked - no clock, fan, nothing else. It turns out that the control board's one-shot thermostatic switch burned out from an over-voltage (surge from the badly running generator, or from a bad RV park connection can't tell which caused it). The moral of that story is that you should get a quality 30amp surge-suppressor and plug it into the outlet inside the electrical cord storage box so it will provide protection against either the generator or an external power source.
I found the replacement board (your part number PS94415, Magic Chef # 51001053R), plus a new bottom tray (plastic white tray your part number PS94528, Magic Chef # 51001213). I took out the old control board, installed the replacement (51001053R), and then took out the old burned plastic tray (the plastic can burn if you place anything not microwave-proof directly on the plastic tray - i.e. a popcorn bag) and replaced it with your tray. Here's how I did the repairs:
1) removed built-in microwave by unscrewing the two phillips screws holding the top-mounted black leuvered plastic vent in place, then unscrewed the remaining 4 phillips screws behind this vent, which hold the top of the microwave/casing/vents in place. Removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom front of the microwave, which holds the bottom bracket of the microwave in place. Note: All 8 phillips mounting screws are the same size - no need to keep track of where each screw came from.
2) opened cabinet to the left of the microwave and unplugged the microwave cord and shoved the cord and plug-end back through the access hole it came out of.
3) Slid the microwave out of the cabinet opening and onto the dinette table, tilted it onto it's back, then removed the three phillips screws holding the bottom bracket to the microwave, and removed the bracket.
4) Removed the 3 phillips screws in the back of the oven holding the casing in place (one at the top-middle and one on at each mid-side) and pulled the "built-in" casing backwards away from the front of the microwave until it came completely away from the oven, then set it aside. (There are two continous metal clips running top-to-bottom, wich are spot-welded to the inside of each side of the casing even with the front-edges of the casing - these clips secure the front edges of the casing against the sides of the microwave frame).
5) Removed the one sheet-metal screw holding the touch-panel/control board assembly in place against the microwave frame (located at the top of the frame, above and behind the back of the control-board ). Opened the microwave door then grasped both sides of the touch-panel assembly and pulled straight up to disengage the two plastic touch-panel hooks from the sl
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door release button
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kevin from Marissa, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
The part was delivered at 5 o'clock and by 5:30 the repair was done.
Remove 3 screws on the back. Remove the outer shell. Remove 1 screw behind the face plate and then lift off the front face plate (this does not have to be completely removed for repair.
Remove the broke part. I then cleaned the area to remove al ... Read more l grime.
The new part slids into place. At first I tried ti fit it between the support posts and realized that one post goes on the insid of part and the other outside.
Replace all pieces and your done.
Remove 3 screws on the back. Remove the outer shell. Remove 1 screw behind the face plate and then lift off the front face plate (this does not have to be completely removed for repair.
Remove the broke part. I then cleaned the area to remove al ... Read more l grime.
The new part slids into place. At first I tried ti fit it between the support posts and realized that one post goes on the insid of part and the other outside.
Replace all pieces and your done.
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No power to any microwave functions
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from CALIFORNIA, KY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one.
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Reassemble and you are done!
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plastic door release button broke
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
andrew from warwick, RI
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove 3 screws holding cover, slid cover to the rear, removed screw at top inside of control panel.
lift up control panel to release it. this exposed broken release button. noted position of release button. with finger pushed up part of door that extended inside to release door (what the broken part was suppose to do). also note t ... Read more hat the left side of the release button goes over the metal protrusion (small cut for to view placement). the right side goes inside the metal protrusion. reassemble and you are ready to go.
lift up control panel to release it. this exposed broken release button. noted position of release button. with finger pushed up part of door that extended inside to release door (what the broken part was suppose to do). also note t ... Read more hat the left side of the release button goes over the metal protrusion (small cut for to view placement). the right side goes inside the metal protrusion. reassemble and you are ready to go.
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Light bulb went out in mictowave
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Linda from BURSON, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
Screwed the new “$40” dollar light bulb back into the recessed socket. The new bulb is much smaller that the original bulb and much harder to get fingers into small area where the bulb went. After several try’s, I got it in.
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Microwave oven bulb had burned out
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Deidre from Brownsville, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
My Dearest One removed the screws that held the part that covers the bulb; removed the old bulb, put in the new bulb and replaced the cover.
The whole operation took less than 5 mins.
Thank you.
The whole operation took less than 5 mins.
Thank you.
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broken door release lever/mechanism
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Beth from Anacortes, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I had to remove the microwave from where it was mounted in a cabinet over the stove in the motorhome. Then I had to pry off the bottom part of the guard panel that surrounds the electronic face. Then the broken door release lever came out easily. It was easy to replace with the new one and then I tested it several time to make sure
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it worked correctly and it does. I then replaced the guard panel and returned the microwave back to it's cabinet in the motorhome. DONE
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