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DLL2650BRL Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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door would not stay closed
12 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dorothy from Kingston, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks
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Burned out interior dryer drum light
11 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Plymouth, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!
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Dryer would not start
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Santa Barbara, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I checked the power (OK) and removed the four screws that held the timer/controls (upper panels) cover. This revealed a schematic for the dryer that enabled me to determine the door swich was probably the culprit. I pried out the old switch and, sure enough, it was always open (checked with multi-meter). I found the replacement switch eas
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ily using the dryer model number and "door switch" search string. Ordered Sunday night, the part came on Tuesday and took 2 minutes to install (no tools needed).
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The lint filter on my 28-year-old dryer had holes in the screening.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christine from Auburn Hills, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in! Grateful to find this item for my "antique" dryer.
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Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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STAN from UPPER ARLNGTN, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
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Broken lint trap
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from Dunellen, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just changed lint trap by removing old one and replacing new one.
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My dryer would light but when it called for more heat it would not light.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tyler from Story City, IA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.
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old bearing completley gone; shaft eating through race making a horrible noise when running
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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greg from abilene, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in bac
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k wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.
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Lint Filter had holes in it. req. replacement,
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Domenic from Livingston, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Simple - took out the defective filter and replaced with the purchased part. The hardest part was figuring out the right lint filter. The extensive info on PART SELECT was very helpful.
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clothes not drying in one cycle
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aaron from Kerhonkson, NY
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..
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Door switch wore out
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Port Charlotte, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
It was very easy. Pop out old, connect new wires and done! Can't say enough as to how fast and easy getting the part from this company was. Ordered the part later in the day one night and on the second day the part was there. Outstanding service.
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Dryer wasn't heating
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Huntingdon, PA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and
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two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.
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Squeaky dryer
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mandi from Rexburg, ID
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the rear panel to access the drive belt. Lowered the pulley to remove the belt and then took off the front panel and popped the top lid off. The belt was slightly frayed on the edges and looked a little old. Inside of the dryer was filled with lint, noticed the vent that sucks the lint from the dryer was almost totally blocked
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because off caked on lint. Probably from the moisture when we lived in Tx and had it in our garage. Sucked it out with the shop vac and scraped the rest. Removed the whole drum and that's when I noticed the rear drum bearing was totally destroyed and only a piece or two remained. Ordered the drum bearing and drive belt. I was about to put them on when I saw the drum slides were worn pretty thin. So I had to order more drum slides. That's why it took me so long to repair the dryer. If I had the parts already, it would have only taken an hour or so. I was pretty excited that I did it myself, since my husband usually fixes everything around the house. Easier than I thought :o)
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Other Parts Used:
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Dryer was making a loud noise while running
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carlton from Bedford, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top pan
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el up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.
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Bad Drive-Belt, Follower wheel and two front slider pads.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joe R from BUELLTON, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Unplug the AC cord. Open dryer door and unscrew 4 small Phillips screws that hold the top panel to the front panel. Tilt up the top panel.
To remove the front panel: Look on the inside of the front panel, disconnect all the wire connections that go to/from the front panel, such as the light and door switch. Remove 2 screws that ... Read more attach the top of front panel to the side panels using a 8mm or 5/16" wrench. Undo or loosen 2 Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel, one at each bottom corner. Remove the front panel. Go to the back of the dryer. Remove the 8 screws holding the lower access panel (8mm or 5/16"). Remove the access panel. Also, remove the 2"x4" access plate in the center of the back panel (2 8mm/5/16"). Reach inside the small panel opening with a needle nose pliers and remove a Cir-clip and washer that holds the rear drum bearing shaft in place. Now you can remove the drum straight forward. Clean, clean, clean the insides. Replace the worn drive belt, follower wheel and front slider pads as needed. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Plug in and test. Drink beer.
To remove the front panel: Look on the inside of the front panel, disconnect all the wire connections that go to/from the front panel, such as the light and door switch. Remove 2 screws that ... Read more attach the top of front panel to the side panels using a 8mm or 5/16" wrench. Undo or loosen 2 Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel, one at each bottom corner. Remove the front panel. Go to the back of the dryer. Remove the 8 screws holding the lower access panel (8mm or 5/16"). Remove the access panel. Also, remove the 2"x4" access plate in the center of the back panel (2 8mm/5/16"). Reach inside the small panel opening with a needle nose pliers and remove a Cir-clip and washer that holds the rear drum bearing shaft in place. Now you can remove the drum straight forward. Clean, clean, clean the insides. Replace the worn drive belt, follower wheel and front slider pads as needed. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Plug in and test. Drink beer.
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