EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

DLL1600LH Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DLL1600LH
16 - 30 of 127

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
extremely loud continous noise when drying laundry
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • wayne from waterloo, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not start
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I checked the power (OK) and removed the four screws that held the timer/controls (upper panels) cover. This revealed a schematic for the dryer that enabled me to determine the door swich was probably the culprit. I pried out the old switch and, sure enough, it was always open (checked with multi-meter). I found the replacement switch eas ily using the dryer model number and "door switch" search string. Ordered Sunday night, the part came on Tuesday and took 2 minutes to install (no tools needed).
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer worked, but there was no heat to dry the load.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dane from Visalia, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed from lower panel. Just popped it open
with a screw driver.
Unplugged dryer and shut off gas by the gas shut-off valve.
Loacated the gas igniter element and removed it
by pulling up. It is only healed in place by a metel
like a clothes pin.
Using caution slid new unit down and into the pinching device.
Plugged in power cord and the gas.
Turned the unit on and it worked !!!
This was worth the try. Better than buying a new
dryer with the economy the way it is now.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The lint filter on my 28-year-old dryer had holes in the screening.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christine from Auburn Hills, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in! Grateful to find this item for my "antique" dryer.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Broken lint trap
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from Dunellen, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just changed lint trap by removing old one and replacing new one.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Lint Filter had holes in it. req. replacement,
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Domenic from Livingston, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simple - took out the defective filter and replaced with the purchased part. The hardest part was figuring out the right lint filter. The extensive info on PART SELECT was very helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
old bearing completley gone; shaft eating through race making a horrible noise when running
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • greg from abilene, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in bac k wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Door switch wore out
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Port Charlotte, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was very easy. Pop out old, connect new wires and done! Can't say enough as to how fast and easy getting the part from this company was. Ordered the part later in the day one night and on the second day the part was there. Outstanding service.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Over heating to the point of almost catching on fire
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Took to many parts off to find out only needed to remove four front screws under the lid. I lifted the lid and found the thermostat and replaced same dryer now works great again at normal temps.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer was making a loud noise while running
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carlton from Bedford, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top pan el up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer was operating WAY TOO HOT! Potential FIRE Hazard!
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from MISSOULA, MT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I discovered that the High Limit Thermo was in place, but had been bypassed years ago. After lifting the top up, I finally found the HLT on the top left side in the back. I removed it, then put the new one in with its 2 screws. I put new lugs on its wires and put them back on. The dryer tested GOOD. No more potential Bar-B-Que! I did print a picture of the wiring diagrams that were on the back of the unit. This gave me the color code of the wires, where they were to be found, and what they did. This also helped. This GE Dryer is at least 26 years old! Newer Dryers in the Videos actually require more work removing things to get to the Thermostat. When I finally found it, the job went quick.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No drying. No gas flame.
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Ballwin, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplugged the power cord, turned off the gas. Then I closed the gas valve feeding the gas igniter assembly. I disconnected the gas pipe from the gas igniter assmb. Then I removed the two screws holding the assmb. on to the front of dryer. From this point the assmb. can be lifted off a supporting bracket. Three cables must be removed in order to remove the assmb. from the dryer. The gas igniter measured very high resistance and actually fell apart. Reassemble in the opposite order as above. Parts diagrams on Partselect.com were invaluable.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
broken gas igniter
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • alan from reeders, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
shut off gas supply, pulled elect plug on dryer, removed gas supply assembly ( 4 screws and 3 plugs ). found broken gas igniter cleaned with air compressor. replaced gas igniter.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer was producing a screeching noise while running
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert J from Egg Harbor City,, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the front panel and the top of the dryer, pulled the drum forward and removed the old rear drum bearing then inserted the new rear drum bearing. I didn't replace the washers or the retaining ring in the back. Put the drum shaft into the new rear drum bearing. Put the front panel and the top in place and started using the dryer a gain.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Temperature Switch failed. Lint Filter warped from over-heat.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Brilliant, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed filter as for cleaning. Replaced with new filter. NO TOOLS REQUIRED!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the DLL1600LH
16 - 30 of 127