DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I first removed the two front screws on the front cover located on the lower half of the dryer using a flash light looking on the left side all the way to the back you will see two hex screws removing them will now let you wiggle the heating element back & fourth while pulling down it will come out in just a few seconds - then with your d ... Read more igital camera take a picture of the still wired heating element as to a clear reference for wiring the new element - first Aline the new element in the same direction as the old element and transfer them one by one check camera for assurance that you have done it correctly and re-reinstall in the reverse order

also I would recommend taking off that black plastic blower chute and cleaning it assuringly the best performance of air flow

First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.
Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly.
Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.
Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.
Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" d ... Read more rill.
I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.
Reconnected wire harness.
Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.
BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!

Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done

After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the ... Read more front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.

Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the fron ... Read more t holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!

First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arr ... Read more ived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.

Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to ... Read more disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.

Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws ... Read more )undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.

First I turned off the circuit breaker, then removed the two screws that hold the front lower panel in place. Once open I removed the 2 screws that held the element in place. (Far back left side) I then pulled the element out leaving all wires connected. Wires are long enough to extend out to the floor in front of the dryer. I simply exch ... Read more anged the wires one at a time to the new element so no mistakes could be made. Reinstall, reset the breaker, and Instant HEAT. Repaired for under $40.00

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and da ... Read more rkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Easy repair and done all from the front. Turn off the power at the breaker. Make sure the power is off. Remove 2 screws holding on the lower panel. Then remove 2 screws holding on the door panel. (Pay notice to the order in which the 3 door wires will get re-connected. The 2 light bulb wires probably can go either way.) Then remove ... Read more 4 screws to a large bracket that supports the front of the drum. (Set these parts aside as you take out the screws.) Then remove the 2 screws from the top panel. Reach in under the drum and release the tension off the belt. It's easy to release, but sorta mind boggling to put back on. Maybe practice that once while it's fresh in your mind. When the belt is off the motor pulley, then lift out the drum. Vaccuum out a lint blanket if you have one. You'll see the 2 drum support rollers and the belt tensioner roller. I didn't know which was squeaking so I replaced all 3. Same method, use ring pliers to take off the retainer ring, remove old, wipe off dust, install new rollers, replace ring. Note the washers are different so put them back on in the same order as removed. Make sure the gasket on the lint assembly gets tucked nicely into the blower housing when you reassemble. Easy repair. If you do pull the dryer away from the wall, replace your flexible exhaust vent with the fire resistant aluminum version.

I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.

Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins ... Read more aligning it to the top panel.

Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.

New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.

Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.

This was my first time repairing a dryer. If I knew when I started the project what I know now, it would have been an easy repair. First, you should know that the series number (used for selecting a wiring diagram) is the last two digits of the unit's serial number (not model number). In my case, the series number was 11. The hardest ... Read more part for me was figuring out how to take the dryer apart. I made the mistake of starting with the top instead of the front. In fact, I removed the control panel and disconnected all the wires, labeling them carefully, and creating a diagram, so i could put it all back together later. I now realize I could have left that all together and just lifted the top up in the front without removing it. That knowledge would have saved hours of work, so I hope it helps someone (prop up the front a few inches and start by removing the panel on the lower front, then remove the screws on the main front panel, and then pull out the bottom of that panel toward you until the top of that front panel disengages from the top of the dryer - the rest is obvious). So it turns out there were two separate problems: 1) the blower wheel had broken completely off of the motor so it wasn't spinning - this is why hot air wasn't being pulled through from the heater in the back of the dryer; 2) the pulley on the spring-loaded lever arm attached to the motor was squeaking due to lack of lubricant. So the solution was to replace the blower wheel and spray WD-40 in the pulley (and also, for good measure in the roller bearings that support the drum in the back of the dryer). Most of the time spent on the repair was just due to my own mistakes. In particular, once I got everything back together after the repair, it stopped squeaking and there was good airflow, but it wasn't heating. I spent an entire day trying to troubleshoot the lack of heat. I tested and bypassed all of the thermostats and heater fuses and the heating element still wouldn't come on. I even managed to accidentally ground one of the leads from the fuse and had to replace a melted wire connector (trip to the Shack). In the end, it turned out that a wire which had been accidentally disconnected from the main power cord to the dryer, I had put back in the wrong spot. There is L1, L2, and neutral going into the dryer. I had the heater on the same circuit as the motor and other stuff. Once I traced the wiring diagram back, I realized this and corrected it by putting the heating circuit back onto L2. Now it "hums like a Singer". If everything had gone smoothly, instead of being a 2-day repair, it would have been a 2 hour repair. 2 hours instead of 1 because to get the leverage I needed to remove the old blower nut, I had to actually pull the motor assembly out of the dryer and move it to my workbench. Someone who is strong or more limber or has better tools might be able to skip that step, reducing the time by about 45 minutes. Good luck!

The parts to replace were mounted to the rear wall of the dryer and only the front pane is removeable. With the panel removed the drum had to be pulled carefully straight out. The belt and tention arm were difficult to reposition. Since you have the appliance apart replace both roller and roller support brackets one of which you cannot se ... Read more e from the front. Throughly vaccum all lint and roller wheel debris . If you have an air compressor take the time to blow out the motor . Make sure to rig a device to hold the tention arm back with the belt correctly aligned while sliding the drum back into place. PARTSLECT is great , easy to use and suggests other parts I may not have thought of and quick . Parts were here in 2 days standard shipping. I was in the dog house for putting this off too long. My wife is happy so I'm happy.