DG18CS Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer
24 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from Wylie, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench set
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.
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Rattling sound.
21 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Laurence from Leesburg, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off circuit breaker. Removed two screws at base of front panel with stubby Phillips-head screwdriver. Swung panel up about 30-degrees, and removed panel, disconnecting red and yellow wire to door switch. Removed four sheet metal screws and took off large drum support bracket. Checked drum support rollers and shafts. They were fine.
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Reset circuit breaker and turned on dryer. Rattling noise still present.
Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from PartSelect.com. Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.
Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from PartSelect.com. Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.
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Gas dryer runs, but no heat.
21 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from Merritt Island, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel (two screws at bottom of the panel), being careful of the door switch wires attached to the front panel. Using an ohm meter, I checked the ignitor for continuity and found it was open (should be 50-100 ohms). Make sure to check the solenoids on the gas valve. When the igniter goes bad, it will u
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sually burn out the valve 1 solenoid boost coil (the one with 3 terminals), which was the case with my dryer. The solenoid coils are held in by a bracket with two screws (series 01 dryer) and are easy to remove and replace. Be careful replacing the igniter as the heating element is VERY fragile. Take the time to vacuum out all of the accumulated lint and dust inside the dryer while the front panel is removed, including the lint trap and duct. New igniter and boost/hold solenoid fixed the problem.
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Dryer was making awful noise during use
20 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pam from Aberdeen, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!
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Heat Would Not Come On
20 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lynn from Novi, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lo ... Read more t of time and money if I had read that earlier.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lo ... Read more t of time and money if I had read that earlier.
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Temperature setting not working
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Buffalo, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
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Dryer wouldn't heat
23 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Clarence from Vienna, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the front of the dryer by removing the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, disconnected the door switch wires. I removed the connectors from the coils on the gas valve, the heat sensor and the igniter. Loosened the gas line at the valve. I removed the screw holding the gas valve and burner assembly and removed the assem
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bly from the dryer. Remover the screw holding the burner to the valve, and removed the igniter. Replaced the burned and reconnected what I had removed. The reason the burner didn't light was due to the gas deflectors being burned off of the burner, If the igniter, sensor, and coils check out OK , check the front of the burned to besure it is deflecting gas to the igniter
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Loud rumble in dryer. Blower wheel broken.
16 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ernest from York, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the machine. I removed the two screws in the front panel and tilted the bottom of the panel out unclipping it at the top. I removed the lint duct whichis held in place with several 1/4" hex head screws. Then I removed the blower cover, also held on wth 1/4" hex head screws, exposing the blower wheel. Using snap ring plie
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rs I removed the snap ring at the end of the motor shaft. Using needle nose liers I removed the spring clamp around the center hub of the old blower wheel and pull the blower wheel off the motor shaft. After cleaning as much lint out as I could I put the new blower wheel on the motor, secured with spring clamp and snap ring. Then I put the blower cover and lint duct back on and put front panel back on.
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Clothes were not drying, three hours still damp
16 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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STEVEN from BELLEROSE, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed the instructions on the video, and saved 500 hundred dollars. I was already shopping for a new dryer. Thanks so much!
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Door Catch was broken
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
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Original problem: Blower fan came loose from the motor shaft.belt and was making a noise clothes were slow drying. Second problem appear upon inspection: idler pulley bracket shaft severely worn.
17 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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adriel from sylmar, CA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing the blower fan took way too long, like 4 hrs, because I didn't know how to disassemble the dryer and get to the problem. Replacing the idler bracket and assorted retaining rings and washers was fast, something like 1 hour. Disconnect the power cord, exhaust hose, and gas line. Remove two screws at the bottom of the face of the m
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achine, unplug the electrical harness to the door light, switch and ground and remove the front of the machine. Remove the access panel at the back of the machine and remove the belt from the idler pulley. Remove the four screws holding the front drum support assembly and remove the drum. Replace some old retaining rings and the spring washers on the drum support rollers. Around back assemble the idler pulley assembly with some new washers and the old roller which seemed in good condition. Put it all back together. About one hour.
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Dryer would grumble(hint the grumble lingered for a second or two after shut down)
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Cary, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the dryer!!!! Removed two screws from lower front panel. Pulled bottom of front panel forward which allowed clips holding top of panel to release. Unlcipped wires attached to door switch on front panel. Set aside front panel. Removed 4 screws(2 on left & 2 on right) from the drum retainer ring. Set aside retainer ring. Rem
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oved thin metal cover protecting blower wires. Removed several screws holding blower cover. Note blower is located on lower left below the lint screen. Used snap ring pliers to remove snap ring securing old blower wheel(an external snap ring). Removed old blower wheel from motor shaft. Inserted new blower wheel on motor shaft. Replaced snap ring. Replaced blower cover. Replaced thin metal wiring cover. Replaced drum retainer ring. Reconnected door switch wiring. Replaced front panel. Done. A hint on the maytag dryer. If your drum wiggles out too far the belt on the drum might not stay aligned. There is a groove on the drum...the belt should NOT sit in this groove...it should ride on the drum about an inch in front of the groove!!!
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Drum wouldn' turn
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Burton from cARLISLE, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Using the instructions accompanying the belt I bought from you,I removed the casing an front support for the drum. I then tried to follow the instructions to install the new belt from the front and found it to be absolutely impossible.I saw that there is a removeable plate on the lower right corner of the back that,if removed, would expos
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e the motor and idler pulleys that are the object of the installation so I removed it and,without much difficulty, installed the belt. One problem in doing so involved the belt's tendency to slide into the groove in the drum when manipulating it onto the pulley set so I enlisted the aid of my wife to hold it in place from the front while I successfully and rather easily did so.
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broken clip for door latch
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Shawn from Dover, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding do
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or closed now.
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Dryer would not heat up
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Westminster, CO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I found a broken heating element ( No conductivity with ohm meter) It was fairly easy to thread a new one through. But I tightened the ceramic terminal just a little too much and it cracked. So be careful at that point.
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