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DF456577 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the DF456577
91 - 105 of 327

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Oven bake element not working
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Sterling, MA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgene from Rock City, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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old bulb fused into old socket.
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Reno, NV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
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Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Coppell, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way. Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Clinton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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The oven glass shattered when I dropped water in the heated Glass
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Franziska from Salt Lake City, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pa y 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!
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Broken glass in oven door
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jamie from Hoover, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!
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i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • barbara from greenville, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs
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front burner would not heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack A from Biloxi, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
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All Instructions for the DF456577
91 - 105 of 327