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DF255670 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the DF255670
61 - 75 of 406

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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Secaucus, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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My U-line ice maker quit filling.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anne from Arlington, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bra cket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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broken door hinge
7 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Elmont, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unplug unit remove rear panel screws lift up stove top remove top two screws remove panel remove two hinge screws remove replace hinge and follow in reverse order
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oven wouldn't light
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from marine city, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to f ully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
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Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harlen from Spring Creek, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
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Just unscred the 2 screw on the Thermometer
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM J from JERSEY CITY, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
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oven would not come to set heat
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from Portsmouth, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.
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Broken levelling leg
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Oneida, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Katy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
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Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from FORT WORTH, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
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Gas was escaping from underneath the burner head
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from ALEXANDRIA, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
The old burner head had corroded allowing gas to come out at the bottom. The actual replacement is just turning the head, lifting it out, transferring two wires with slip-on connectors from the old burner to the new one, and dropping the new one in place. Most of the time was spent sanding away corroded metal on the base to make a good fit. The information on the burner head says that the company has decided not to use a gasket under the head. I suggest that was a bad decision.
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Oven ignighter no longer works
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from PORTERVILLE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  t ool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry
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OVEN WOULD NOT HEAT
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from MEADVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN
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All Instructions for the DF255670
61 - 75 of 406