D8241RT-L Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.

Make a quarter turn counterclockwise, disengage a burner head, disconnect 2 wires, connect to a new head, install turn clockwise.

That's it!

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

Counterclockwise turn old burner to remove. Unplug attachment wires. Replug wires place back in place turn clockwise. Done.

The old burner head had corroded allowing gas to come out at the bottom. The actual replacement is just turning the head, lifting it out, transferring two wires with slip-on connectors from the old burner to the new one, and dropping the new one in place. Most of the time was spent sanding away corroded metal on the base to make a good fit. The information on the burner head says that the company has decided not to use a gasket under the head. I suggest that was a bad decision.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

The burner was leaking a rust colored dirt and shooting flames all over the place. The top came off and I needed channel-locks to get the bottom half out. The wires were hard to get off and I broke one connector off so I soldered the wire on to the new part which fit the stove top perfectly. It still took less than a half hour to replace. Without problems it should take about 5 minutes.

Replaced with a new one.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

cut off terminals and replaced with the right size one's stove lights every time now wlrowe

The trickiest part was locating the elusive spark module. I am not certain I took the best route, but not considering all the wrong routes in trial and error, it was the most expedient. Certainly there must have been a single something to remove to get to this frequently faulted part..

Anyhow, thanks to the great part, the stove works really well again.

The spark module pulses a stepped up voltage to all four burner sparks at the same time regardless of which burner you want to ignite. I read that this part lasts about 10 years. I don't cook much and it lasted 13 years. On my Magic Chef the part is behind the right side wall panel. Lift the range top,remove all the screws that hold the right side panel in place. This replacement can done without opening any gas fittings.

ordered 2 burner heads- 1 at a time did not fix had to order a module-spark which solved the problem