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CWE9000BCE Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

All Instructions for the CWE9000BCE
1 - 15 of 176

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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
162 of 213 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Westford, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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F1-1 code
79 of 110 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from marstons mills, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Fa ilure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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Oven (not broiler) element burned out, no oven heat
72 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Placentia, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Inside the oven, I removed one Phillips screw on each side where the element mounts to the back oven wall. Then disconnected the wire on each side using pliers. Unscrewed glass lens, unscrewed light bulb. Replaced all pieces in reverse order. Took less than 10 minutes.
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Needed to replace oven door gasket.
58 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.
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Burned terminal block and filter board
95 of 207 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
35 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the righ t side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
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Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Juliustown, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
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Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)
26 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.
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Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Clarksville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the bac kside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
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Very Little Heat
19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM from GLADSTONE, MI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Website it showed video of how to test components with a digital tester, and then upon ordering parts, the repair wass fairly easy for a do-it-yourselfer.
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Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary L. from Trinity, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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defective oven sensor
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sean from easthampton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires to gether and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
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My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bexley, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its correspon ding hole.
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Code said we needed a sensor
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janice from Portland, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.
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Main burner element got a hot spot and burned through
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Conway, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
VERY SIMPLE. Two screws inside the overn hold the element in place, remove them - pull the element forwad to expose the connections, one on each end. Simply unplug the element from the connections to remove the old one, plug the new element into the connections, push the element back into place, and re connect the two screw's that hold i t in place. That's it. 5 minutes tops. You guys were great as far as getting the part, quickly and easily. Thanks!
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All Instructions for the CWE9000BCE
1 - 15 of 176