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CWE6830ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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2 broken oven door springs
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Kim from Brecksville, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched the youtube video that was provided by this website on my computer while doing this repair step by step. It was a snap!
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F-4 Code, oven wouldn't heat
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Gary from San Jose, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding th
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e wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.
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Jenn Air oven door would not stay closed all the way so the light stayed on.
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Mary T from Glenoma, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video
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again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!
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Oven would not heat on Back Cycle
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Jeff from Thousand Oaks, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resi
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stance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.
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The hinge broke and the oven would not close
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Kit from Temple, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge op
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en was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.
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broken hinge
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Robert from La Porte, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.
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Oven would not heat
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Claude from Lakewood, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)
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oven temperature only goes to 275 degrees even when set higher; broiler works
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Anne Marie from Huntingdon Valley, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small
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opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
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Element in oven would not adjust to the oven temperature.
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Dolores from Edmond, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fi
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sh out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.
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Element cracked and not heating
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Rebecca from bethlehem, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed old element attached connections to new element tightened screws to install
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change oven sensor
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Lloyd from Eau Claire, WI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Followed provided video
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Door Hinge broken
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Antonio from Davie, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I followed the online video at Jennair.com. The repair was easy and I saved quite a bit of money. I was quoted a price of $534.00 to replace the door hinges, I did it for $96.00 including overnight shipping chargers. I am a very happy lady.
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Light lens broke when self clean cycle was used
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James from Buford, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!
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Burned out lower element
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Linda from Rolling Hills Estates, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws holding the lower element (hard but they actually came out after 12 years) and pulled the wires out to expose the wire connections. I didn't turn off the breaker since the oven was off. BIG MISTAKE. One of the connectors touched the oven case and blew off the end of the element. No problem luckily. After turning off the
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breaker all was OK and easy. Connected the wires to the new element and put back screws. Screws are not tightening up all the way but they won't pull out with moderate pressure so I'm calling it finished. If I get energetic I might try slightly larger screws sometime. Took less time than writing this.
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Had code F1 and F3 on my oven. Oven wouldn't heat.
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Cindy from Polson, MT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.
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