CTX16APJLWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .

At this time of the year our beach fridge is always full of food and drinks. Every time we want something it meant leaving the door open for extended time whlie moving things left, right and center. When the new shelf arrived I removed the food and drinks from the existing two shelves and moved them closer together. I then slipped in the new shelf and reloaded the food. Suffice to say the fridge stays open less and we are able to get at things without moving others. I wish I had thought to do this before.

Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.

Removed plastic covers and used a nut driver to remove the two screws that held the heater assembly to the freezer coils, disconnected wires from old assembly, connected wires to new assembly, replaced mounting screws and replaced plastic covers and secured them with the original screws. All in all, a fairly easy operation.

took out 4 screws - lowered timer cover - replaced timer- put it back together

turned off water supply, took screws out of bracket, then unhooked water lines. Installed water lines onto new valve, plugged it in then screwed bracket back onto fridge, turned on water and was back operating

I placed the new part on the end of the freezer door guard and firmly pushed it in until it 'clicked'. Easy as pie! The more difficult part was to remove the broken off part inside the opening of the freezer door hwere the new bar end was to be inserted. I finally used thin nose pliers to reach in and grab the broken off part.

Repair was very simple. Removed refridgerator bottom back panel, about 6 or 7 screws. disconnected bad valve, installed new valve , connected water supply line and then reinstalled panel. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish.

From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

We have an older model refrigerator and thought it would be impossible to find a replacement ice bucket for the freezer. Not only did you have the exact part but it came unbelieveably fast. I would use your website again!

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.

p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.

The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.)
I plugged in the solenoid connection first
I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)

It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.