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CSX22GRBAWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions
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Fan had quit; needed replacement.
10 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from Divide, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The fan was the correct part. It arrived one day after my well trained son-in-law had left for Texas. I had to install the motor myself. He had trained me well; it was not hard. the most difficult was getting the two tabs on the fan housing to fit back into the frame of the refrigerator where they belonged. Thanks. the part & deliver
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y were overpriced, but I needed seed and convenience. Thanks for getting it right the first time.
John Moragues
John Moragues
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Door Would Not Close Properoy
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Lake Sherwood, MO
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Door cam disintegrated after 20 years. This was a terrific site for suggested repairs. My problem was not paying attention to how the door shim, cam and spacer were placed on the hinge. Most of the site's instructions did not forewarn the obvious...pay attention when doing repairs!!
Instructions from others were generally pr ... Read more etty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.
I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.
This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!
Instructions from others were generally pr ... Read more etty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.
I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.
This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!
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Door would not close properly
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dan from New Braunfels, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I stacked three 2x4's that were approximately as wide as the door in length. This required lifting the door about 1/4" but it also got the weight of the door off the cam so the bracket assembly that the cam was attached to could be removed. I drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and like previous DIY's had to use a small
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bolt and nut to secure the new cam in place. Reattached the bracket with the new cam and that was it. The only problem was that the head of the bolt I used was not flat enough to allow proper clearance for the door to swing freely without feeling some drag and the wife noticed that immediately. I told her to wait until the weekend and I would again remove the door and file down the head of the bolt to allow the required clearance. After a few days of use, the door itself ground enough material off the head of the bolt so that the door began to open and close properly. So now she's happy, I'm happy and the dog is happy.
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Plastic light sheild over freezer light had broken.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Louisville, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed old sheild and reached in freezer replacing sheild with screwdriver. 3 - 4 minutes.
Ordered sheild online one afternoon and received the nest afternoon. Great transaction. will use again when needed.
George in Louisville, KY
Ordered sheild online one afternoon and received the nest afternoon. Great transaction. will use again when needed.
George in Louisville, KY
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
17 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Very Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl
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iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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Door Closing Cam Disintegrated
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Hubbardston, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The door closing cam on the refrigerator door was a snap to replace. However, I'm still baffled on how to replace the freezer door side. The condensation tube from the door runs through the door pivot and joins to a compression fitting behind the bottom trim piece. The compression ring is behind a formed lip on the tube and won't slide of
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f. I could cut the tube but I really didn't want to do that. If anyone has done this and knows the trick to replace it, I would appreciate it.
Ed. Please post your question at our repair forums, forums.partselect.com.
Ed. Please post your question at our repair forums, forums.partselect.com.
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noise from condenser fan
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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donald from opelousas, LA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .
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Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rod from Nashville, TN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. ... Read more
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. ... Read more
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
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Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Palm Springs, CA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get
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the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
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Other Parts Used:
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Leaky water line to water dispenser
9 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from San Clemente, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the
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outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!
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Other Parts Used:
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Refrigerator water dispenser tube (5/16"OD) broken at the back by valve
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Marietta, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench set
Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator
Other Parts Used:
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The Auger in the Ice became Rusty
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Miami, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Once I received the New part, I simply removed the old one, unscrew the door assembly off of the old one and reinstall it on the new one using only 4 screws. Then simply pluged in the New Ice Bucket. If it were any easier, My Kids would have done it.
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Part of my ice bucket assembly had broken off
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wallace from Detroit, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
All I did was take the old bucket out,, which had been frozen to the base, and I had to thaw out, by turning the refrigarater off , and use a hair dryer to melt the ice, after that I unscreewed the outer face of the old bucket, and replsced it to the new bucket
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Cold water for door - leaked on floor
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOSEPH from SURFSIDE, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.
Other Parts Used:
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Ice chute frosted up
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Phillip from Springfield, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) ... Read more that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) ... Read more that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
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