CSX22GABBAA Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.

I first rolled out the refrigerator, unplugged it, and emptied the freezer contents into a cooler.

Then removed the shelving (side by side freezer / refrigerator) and the four screws holding the back panel.

The coil and defrost heaters were covered with ice, so the paint heat gun made quick work of defrosting them.

The heaters were held in by two screws each, so replacing them with the new units took little time.

Then it was a matter of routing the wiring and thermostat to the top of the coil, and plugging them in.

Replaced the back panel and shelving, and plugged in the refrigerator.

Saw that everything was operating, so I rolled the refrigerator back in place, and replaced the freezer contents.

In a few hours everything stabilized in the refrigerator and we were back to normal.

I followed the troubleshooting instructions for freezers with ice build-up. First defrost the freezer. This makes a huge mess. The tray for water buildup is very small. I suggest covering the hole so no water gets to the tray and collecting the water as it melts in the freezer. (DO NOT pry the ice off with a knife. I did that when I was 14 and punctured the freon lines.) After the ice was gone inside the freezer, I removed the back panel of the freezer (a pair of 5/16" nuts on the bottom and a pair of #2 phillips screws at the top). The panel will then just pull straight out. Make sure the ice has melted from behind the panel as well before testing any of the components.

First component to check is the defrost timer. Pretty straight forward, using the instructions on the PartSelect home page and a multi-meter (looking for continuity or the lack there of). You need to remove it and check it out of the fridge. In my case the defrost timer worked correctly (bummer since it was much cheaper than the defrost heater kit). Next step was to test the Defrost Heater. I used a common since approach which was not mentioned in the instructions. I manually turned the defrost timer until it clicked. Then I put my hand next to the glass tubes that incased the heater elements. They did not get hot. I then turned the defrost timer until it clicked again. Again, the heater elements did not get hot. Since there are only two setting on the timer, it means the defrost heater was broken. If you can hear the refrigerator/freezer running, then you are not in defrost mode. Turn the thermostat for another click. All noise will stop...and heat should be found at the tubes (behind 6" thin tin covers), if they are functioning.

Removing the defrost heaters and thermostat was simple. There are four #2 screws (2 on each assembly). The thermostat is just clipped on. It is impossible to put the defrost heater assembly in wrong. Put the panel back on and your ready to go. The 30-60 minutes is not repair time but de-ice and repair time. I used a space heater to speed up the de-ice process.

I simply put the two ends into the slots and VOILA...

Removed everything from the refrigerator door. Removed the screw holding the cover over the top hinge. Removed the two (8mm) bolts holding the top hinge to the refrigator. Removed the door. Removed the plastic grill/cover and the two (8mm) bolts from the lower hinge assembly. Installed the new hinge assembly. Replaced the closing cam (included in the hinge assembly kit) on the bottom of the door. Put the door back on the lower hinge. Installed the upper hinge. Adjusted the door and tightened the bolts on the upper hinge, and replaced the hinge cover. Done!

I have just followed the instructions on the youtube video: It is really easy. I did. Thank you

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.

removed the back of the freezer unit and replaced the defrost heater and thermastat. took the controls out of the produce side and replaced the defrost timer.

Removed the broken rail by removing two screws. Put one screw through the hole in the new rail, matched it to the hole in the side of the fridge, and tightened it - not too tight! Then guided the second screw into place and did the same thing. Replaced the drawer. Job done.

Identifying the part on the website was a breeze too, thanks to well-organized site, a picture of the part to match to my broken one, and even a video of a repairman making the repair. Couldn't have been easier, and probably saved me about $100.

we took off the old one and replaced it.

Removed the door by removing the top hinge and lifting it off the broken bottom hinge/cam assembly. Removed the broken hinge/cam assembly found out why the cam broke the doorstop was bent so I had to order the doorstop also. The ordering of the parts was so easy. They shipped them on Monday and they arrived the next day. I will use Parts Select again

I was astonished when my part (PS306943 SLIDE ASM LH (Drawer Slide Rail - left side)arrived the very next day!!
In a big box, beautifully wrapped.
I got out my screw driver, detached the dead shelf support and screwed in the new one.
Oh it's so very nice to have the fridge working again, and so soon.
Hooray for Part select.com
The best thing since sliced bread.
Jill