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CS980SN1SS Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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broiler unit went out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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helen from PRINCETON, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
less then ten minutes, used a electric screw driver and in a snap, finished, I always buy my parts on line at parts select my stove is old but in good condition except parts give out sometimes and I just order part and keep on cooking.
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knob thermostat burnt out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from CENTERPORT, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help
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No Instructions
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
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Replace Infiniti Switch
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ezekiel from FLORISSANT, MO
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.
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oven would not get hot
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from GATE CITY, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard t ... Read more o work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard t ... Read more o work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
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The main burner on our GE glass cooktop stopped working. It would glow red and work for a second, then go black.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Seattle, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Repl
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acing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!
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Stove was not getting enough power.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nathan from Wells, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r
... Read more
ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
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Heat element died
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andrea Hines from ELGIN, AZ
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Very easy to replace. So easy even a man can do it.
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The lower,BAKE, element had burned in half almost causing a fire.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from DIAMOND SPGS, CA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the o
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ven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.
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Temp probe was defective
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from SOUTHBURY, CT
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.
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Broiler Unit Failed
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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William from BOYERTOWN, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.
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would not heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from SARASOTA, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Did the repair just like the video shows.
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Burner not working
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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LUIS from CONCORD, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceram
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ic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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Burner didn't go on
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Hatfield, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off juice
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
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