CRE883 Maytag Range - Instructions
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Top oven sensor
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Alan from Bonita, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires to
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gather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.
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Right-side oven door spring broken
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Ted from Horseshoe Bend, AR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the c
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ooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!
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Oven randomly turned off and locked
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Robert from homilton, MT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided
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The oven was not heating up to temperature
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Max from Bothell, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electroni
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c clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards
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Oven would not program and would shut down
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Sreve from Deland, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and i
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n reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.
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Broken Door Spring
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Matthew from Chippewa Falls, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Slid oven out from counters. On each side there are 3 screws on the front and three screws on the back holding the side piece on. Once off, the spring was very easy to get at and replace. I had only one broken, but replaced both anyways. I think it took longer to clean the sides of the oven that haven't been touched in years than to r
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eplace the springs. This job was very simple and easy.
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My oven was not holding temperature.
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Anthony from Acworth, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.
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The original bake element burned out
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William from Florissant, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The eleme
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nt did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.
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temperature varied in oven.couldn't set
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tom from winter haven, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair
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Drip bowls tarnished.
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Jennifer from Albion, NE
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".
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Upper oven shut down after reaching temperature
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Earl from Globe, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in pla
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ce and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.
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Range had an F-2 code on the control panel
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Greg from Frederick, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou
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I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
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Robin from Vanderbilt, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Socket set
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
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Oven tempature varies.
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Wilfred from Hoover, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.
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oven temperature was of & then taking along time to heat
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Barbara from Newark, DE
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Followed video
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