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CRE8600CCM Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CRE8600CCM
76 - 90 of 454

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i sat a tupperware bowl on a hot burner and it stuck to the burner so i had to replace it
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • judy from palatine, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
just plugged it in!
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The inside glass was broken on oven door.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacob from Cotton, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.
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Burner wouldn't heat (wiring failure)
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from San Antonio, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherri from elk horn, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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Bake Element wouldn't heat up to temperature
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Foxboro, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had viewed the video link on PartsSelect. I removed 2 screws and proceeded to pull element out to disconnect wire connectors. However one side the wire connected was melted on to the contact tab of the element and the wire was broken off. I proceeded to remove back panel from stove and located the exposed broken wire. I stripped back wi re and installed a new wire connector that I had in my tool box. I fed wire through small hole. Then I re-installed back panel. I then connected wires to the new bake element and installed element mounting screws.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Broil element burst
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from WEST COLUMBIA, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Drop in range was in excellent condition until element burst and was getting ready to purchase another range and then I was looking to replace the element and found part select and they were great from the order process and shipping was fast and the whole process was 5 STARS. As far as me doing the repair I watched the video and it was s imple for even me. I also replaced the bake element at the same time. Once again I highly recommend Part Select and they are second to none.
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Bake element eroded
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alison from NORTH EASTON, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Everything was straightforward other than the tabs that the screws go through before going into the back of the oven were the wrong size and the predrilled holes were not in the right location. Had to trim the metal tabs and redrill the screw holes.
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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oven light glass cover was broken
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • wayne from LIMINGTON, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgene from Rock City, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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The element on my 20+ year old Jenn Zaire oven had broken in two...
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from New Britain, PA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Went online to find replacement part. (Because I’m cheap) Came across the website, found the part by model number, and watched the wonderful replacement video that was right on the same page as the part. After the part arrived, (in just a couple of days) I put the new one in. Only took a couple of minutes! Perfection! Thanks for making m y problem, no problem at all!
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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All Instructions for the CRE8600CCM
76 - 90 of 454