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CRE355 Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CRE355
106 - 120 of 147

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Light bulb failure
  • Grant from Alexandria, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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Burner did not heat, but element is ok.
  • Philip from Hull, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The Burner Control Switch - 250V Part Number: PS2089409 that this site recommended was the right part for this older range. Had to remove screws to pull out the front panel with knobs, but it only pulls out a couple inches due to wires so it is tight to remove old switch. The five tabs are not in same spot so go by the labels and the wi re lugs fit just fine, and the knob snapped right on and works great. Thank You!
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Burner element stopped working
  • Robert from Lodi, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.
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Burner was always in high temperature.
  • Dennis from Oak Lawn, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the range away from the wall and took out all the screws of the back panel. I had two different screws. Removed the dial and took two screws out behind the dial. Carefully removed the wires and placed them on the new switch. Screwed switch to panel, replaced dial and put the back panel back on range. Pushed range back into place.
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I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
  • Robin from Vanderbilt, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
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Burner stayed on "high", could not adjust heat
  • Deborah from Hodgen, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I UNPLUGGED STOVE, removed panel covering the controls, removed the knob on front and the two screws there that hold the control in, inserted new control and replaced the two screws on the front that hold it onto the stove, used needle nosed pliers to unplug one connection at a time from the old control and onto the new control in the bac k. When I had all connections plugged onto the new control I re-installed the panel cover with a screwdriver, plugged the stove back in, and the burner is now working good as new!
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The original bake element burned out
  • William from Florissant, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The eleme nt did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.
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Broken Door Spring
  • Matthew from Chippewa Falls, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Slid oven out from counters. On each side there are 3 screws on the front and three screws on the back holding the side piece on. Once off, the spring was very easy to get at and replace. I had only one broken, but replaced both anyways. I think it took longer to clean the sides of the oven that haven't been touched in years than to r eplace the springs. This job was very simple and easy.
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burners would not come on without moving them around
  • Ronald E. from Marissa, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type thi s but i am slow at typing
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Burner was in full hot.
  • Dennis from Oak Lawn, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off the power. Pull the range away from the wall and removed the eight screws holding the cover in place. Carefully pulled the wires off the old switch. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new. Put all the wires on and replaced the back cover and was done. Burner works fine. This part replaces a lot of different number switches.
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Not heating
  • Darwin from wisconsin rapids, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done
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Drip bowls tarnished.
  • Jennifer from Albion, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".
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burner not operating or intermittently
  • Elroy from Atwater, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.
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Electric surface burner would only turn very hot
  • Vittorio from Wakefield, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).
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unable to remove screw with screwdriver
  • Emmett from Rayville, LA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
used drill to remove old screw
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All Instructions for the CRE355
106 - 120 of 147