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CPMC3085KF1 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CPMC3085KF1
1 - 15 of 79

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Oven not heating to desired temperature
155 of 244 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from Bellevue, ID
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.
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Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
109 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
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Timer would run but the microwave won't start
92 of 150 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I first removed the top plate above the microwave door (3 screws), then I removed the plate containing the buttons and clock. The microwave has 3 relay switches and they are in a little holder. The holder was too difficult to remove so I just removed the bottom switch and replaced. The microwave started right up.
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Cracked oven door inner glass
76 of 135 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mitch from Fernandina Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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Broken glass interior oven door
33 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • stephen from garden grove, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. Th e biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...
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microwave wouldn't turn on but timer worked.
35 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Moorhead, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
was told buy a repair person to check the door micro switches as it was a common problem. removed the top plastic air grill to get access to the screw that holds in place the control cover. After unplugging the unit, i took out the (2) screws that held in the switches and removed them (3). One switch was a bit melted so i tested it with a 12 volt battery and it was bad. Ordered a new one from Part select and got it fast . Works great .
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Microwave would count down but not run
29 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Betty from Kimball, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After unplugging the unit remove the control face buy removing the screws. All three door switchs are on a bracket on the left. Remove the two screws holding the bracket in place and pull out. Disconnect the wires from the three switches and test each switch indivually to determine the bad one. I used a multimeter set on ohms.Replace the bad switch with the new one and replace all the wires. Reassemble the unit and you are good to go.
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Timer & Light on but no operation
24 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Danny from Yanceyville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It is a undercabinet stovetop microwave. First had to take it down and unplug. Remove the top cover locate the door switch. Used neednose pliers to remove switch. Unplug two terminals.Plug new switch and use pliers to replace back @ same position.Plug in socket temporarily to see if it works.Afterwards if it works.Unplug and replace cover .Ready to be replaced back under cabinet.
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replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Stevensville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. O nce there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
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Oven would not maintain correct set temperature.
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from RAINBOW CITY, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.
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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from THORNTOWN, IN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My ov en is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
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Lower oven would heat to temperature, but would not continue to maintain temperature.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heidi from RIDGWAY, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Troubleshoot element by disconnecting the element leads from relay board and test for acceptable resistance across leads. In my case the element had tested open with no resistance.

******You may not need to remove oven depending on how the framing under the oven is constructed.

**** Before you begin, disconnect po wer from the oven.

1.Remove two screws under oven, directly below rear of element door, and remove the metal piece the screws held in place. This will free up the back of the element access door panel.
2.Remove front trim strip on front bottom of oven, this will expose two screws directly behind trim strip. Remove the two screws behind the trim strip. This will free up the front of the element access door.
3. Lower element access door. If you can open the element door enough to disconnect the element wire leads and get the element out, you can swap out the element now and will not need to pull your oven out of the wall. If you can't open the access panel to fully access and replace element, slide the oven out until you can get the access door open and prop the front of the oven up on something sturdy you have laying around. In my case it was the good old yeti cooler. I would seriously consider removing the oven doors before you slide the oven out. It will make the oven alot less tippy by removing the weight from the front off the appliance. The element wires are short, you may need to disconnect them to get the element access door all the way open.
4. Install the new element and reassemble using these instructions in reverse order.
5. Reconnect power.
6. Make a batch of cookies.
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Oven light stayed on & smelled like electrical burning.
16 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent from Brunswick, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven lig ht switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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All Instructions for the CPMC3085KF1
1 - 15 of 79