CMV1000BAW Maytag Microwave - Instructions

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

Turned off circuit breaker to microwave. (Built-In microwave). Unscrewed four screws at bottom panel of microwave to expose electrical wires/plastic plug to existing microwave motor.
Disconnected plastic plug/clips to motor and microwave lights(to allow entire bottom panel to drop down fully from back hinges). Unscrewed mounting screw for motor and removed old motor. Replaced motor and screwed mounting screw back in. Re-attached electrical connections for motor and lights. Closed panel and screwed bottom panel back on. Turned circuit breaker back on. 15-20 minutes start to finish.

Just replaced it with the part that was sent -- no physical tools used.

The part was sent when promised and arrived promptly. I would recommend this company for part replacements.

I popped in the new tray, and that was that! A perfect fit!

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

change light bulbs

took out old turntable and placed new one in

The replacement would have been easy - remove the glass tray and put the new one in,

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Lifted out the glass turntable plate and removed broken turntable guide. Placed new turntable guide into place and replaced the glass turntable plate.

The circular glass tray for my mother's microwave was accidentally broken. Fortunately, PartSelect made it easy to locate and to order a replacement.
As for the repair, I opened the door and put it in. The work was done faster than it took me to type this email.

The motor would turn about 10 revolutions then quit. I would manually spin the motor and it would turn about another 10 revs and quit again. The motor I ordered was an exact match OEM and install time was less than 30 min total to install the motor, secure the electrical and the bottom of the microwave. Thanks Partselect for the prompt delivery and ease of using your web sight.

open door, place roller in the microwave, put the glass plate back in place -- done.