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CMEF212EB1 Uni Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CMEF212EB1
16 - 30 of 70

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The elements were not heating up
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tanya from KALISPELL, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!
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When oven was set at 400, actual temp would run about 285.
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from MOBILE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sen sor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.
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showing age
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from N MYRTLE BCH, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you
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Refrigerator Light bulb went out
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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crummy chrome drip pans were worn out. replaced wtih enamel ones.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Katherine H. from SEAL BEACH, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis from Beloit, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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The element had broken in half in our 24” Tappan range.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lorraine from NORTH MANKATO, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
We removed the backplate from our range unhooked the element Lug connection .Then we unscrewed the 2 screws in the oven holding the old element removing it screwing the new element into the oven wall. We then hooked the rear connections to the lugs and replaced the back plate.
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Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Falmouth, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
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Oven would not heat after running self clean
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Owasso, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on ther mal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.
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Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from FOREST HILLS, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great
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Thermostat. Didn’t cut off at set temp
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Everette from HARRISBURG, PA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.
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top electric burner not working
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from CHESTERTOWN, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you
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Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from SAN MATEO, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
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oven not reheating after initial heat up
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • christine from addison, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to mak e sure all worked AND IT DID!
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Two burners did not heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Conan from Moline, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.
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All Instructions for the CMEF212EB1
16 - 30 of 70