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CHE9800ACE Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CHE9800ACE
61 - 75 of 400

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Gasket was worn out.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from VALLEJO, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Put a new one in.
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Old element caught fire, replaced with new one
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • louis from CAHOKIA, IL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed screws of old element pulled clips off replaced with new element very easy
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Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from SANTA BARBARA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherri from elk horn, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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one electric burner does not get hot
5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dinh from austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. U sed the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.
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Broiler drawer didn't track poperly
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Atlanta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove screw securing the broken drawer guide. Placed new drawer support in place and tightened screw. Replaced drawer. All done in less than 5 minutes (and cheaply).
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Broiler front drawer slides broke
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernie from Fremont, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I noticed the drawer on the broiler was sliding crooked and found the plastic slides had broken. Of course I thought it would be a hassle and not worth the time to fix it. I would just "live with it". Boy was I wrong, it was probably the simplest fix ever. It was easy to get the correct parts from PartSelect with their exploded and concis e diagram. The parts were ordered and delivered in a couple of days. It took me all of 10 minutes with a screwdriver to make the repairs. Now it is a good as new.
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Oven heat loss, door gasket needed replacement
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Chapell Hill, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in plac e! Simple!
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • francis from mount holley, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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Bake element caught on fire
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from TomRriver, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I got the run around about my HARWICK stove at several part stores. Like they all said the same thing (cant look it up just bring it down) So i did and then they would say, what's the model number. ERR! SO my wife found parts select on the web and they beat the three price quotes I got. First turn the power off to the stove!!! The repair was simple. Just remove the two screws on both side's and pull the element out but just enough for the wire's to show. Disconnect the two wire's and pull the element out. Reverse the processes but when wire's are reconnected squeeze terminals end gently to ensure a good connection. This is a great company to deal with, I will be using them again. Thanks and good luck!!!
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Baking element burned out
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Pleasant Hill, IA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I watched the video on the web site and it worked like a dream. Two screws to take out - disconnect wires put back connecting wires and replace the screws again. Just like the video. Thanks
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Bake Element wouldn't heat up to temperature
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Foxboro, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had viewed the video link on PartsSelect. I removed 2 screws and proceeded to pull element out to disconnect wire connectors. However one side the wire connected was melted on to the contact tab of the element and the wire was broken off. I proceeded to remove back panel from stove and located the exposed broken wire. I stripped back wi re and installed a new wire connector that I had in my tool box. I fed wire through small hole. Then I re-installed back panel. I then connected wires to the new bake element and installed element mounting screws.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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All Instructions for the CHE9800ACE
61 - 75 of 400