Original burner cap was chipping; must have been dropped somewhere along the line.
New burner cap replaced old; just placed over burner; no tools required.
One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Oven would not heat
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.
Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
The knob dial skirts are made of plastic and become warped with the heat
I had really hoped these new knob dual skirts would be made of metal and therefore superior to the ones that came with the oven, but alas, these are also made of plastic. It was easy to screw them into place although they didn’t come with screws I just used the old screws. I sure hope they last longer than the originals!
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
